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AFLOAT ON 
THE JAMES 







Published 
and Copyrighted 
by 



f/^g Virginia 
Navigation 
Co. 




THE LIBRARY OF 
CONGRESS, 

Two Copies Receiv««i 

SEP 29 1903 

S Copyright Entry 
50- XXc. No 

(^ ci ^ L t 

COPY a. 




RtNTIN« 



i 




SWORD AND PLOWSHARE. 




" PRINCESS OF THE JAMES." 
O 

^^^■■f^^HE earliest voyagers in European 
craft sailing up from the Spanish 
dies along the southern coast 
^/;g^^•^ turned their prows westward 
°.ii\M^o above stormy Hatteras, thankful, 
perhaps, for a haven, and search- 
ing for a strait leading to the ever- 
golden unknown, found, instead, 
a great river, along the densely 
wooded shores of which they 
^'^-^~^^^~^^^ - drifted far into the interior, until 

j^^g^^^=^---^= ^-^ foaming rapids forbade them. 

These venturous and insatiable 
sailors found the forests and savannahs of this pleasing stream peopled with 
a native race of noble mien and not less haughty or capable than the 
descendants of the English forefathers who, nearly a century later, came 
sailing into sparkling Hampton Roadstead, bestowing upon the stream 
a royal name and establishing along its banks a chain of estates, which 
have sustained the purest aristocracy and nurtured many of the greatest 
statesmen this continent has ever known. 

For nearly two centuries the inevitable struggle, which evervwhere at- 
tends the effacement of an old race by a newer strain, continued. The al- 
luvial valley of the James became the garden of the South. The splendid 
homes of cultured and influential planters, whose negroes were uncount- 
able, were famous for storied hospitality in a period of political and social 
sunshine, but the clouds of adversity grayed the Virginia horizon when the 
Erie canal was finished and western bread-stuffs filled the seaboard mar- 
kets. The storm burst in 1861 and then another chapter, the greatest in 



the eventful annals of the "River of History" was written. The ivy clam- 
bered unhindered over stately portals ; the tempest of warfare swept across 
this pleasant scene and left it desolate. This book is the story of a revival. 
The two cities of the James, Richmond and Norfolk, once provincial 
towns, have become objective points of great railway systems and numerous 
steamship lines, these being both the cause and eflfect of a ratio of prosper- 
ity far in advance of their ante bellum conditions, and which is but in its 
inceptive stage. A genial climate and a good harbor have made Norfolk the 
packing-house of the kitchen garden of every Northern market. Lumber, 
earlv fruits and vegetables, corn, hay, and even wheat, not to mention fish 




STEAMER POCAHONTAS. 



and oysters, are the tribute of the tide-water counties of Princess Anne, 
Norfolk, Nansemond, Isle of Wight, Elizabeth City, Warwick, Surry, 
James City, Charles City, Prince George and Chesterfield. 

Richmond has grown great in iron, tobacco, flour-milling, wood-work- 
ing, and a great variety of other industries. Her suburbs extend beyond 
many of the old fortifications, and while retaining zealously the social char- 
acteristics of bygone days, she has kept in line with any city of the South 
in every point of material progress. 

For many years a single steamboat, the staunch old Ariel, has main- 
tained a regular tri-weekly route between Richmond and the ports upon 
Hampton Roads. From her decks tens of thousands of old soldiers of both 



armies have looked again upon the scenes of battle and march in which 
they once participated Numerous tourists hibernating to the resorts of Old 
Point Comfort, Virginia Beach and the far South have gone or returned 
by this pleasant voyage of a day, while local travel and freightage has de- 
pended upon the Ariel for transit at nearly thirty landings along the river. 
Recently the Virginia Navigation Company, owners of the Ariel, was 
reorganized. Plenty of capital was enlisted and the splendid new steamer 
Pocahontas, a veritable princess of the river, was built and placed in ser- 
vice. The increase in first-class and local travel was large and immediate, 




STEAMER ARIEL. 



and it is the purpose of this book to not only inform the traveler already 
upon the decks of the swift Pocahontas regarding the crowding historic 
miles, the enchanting scenery and the renewed prosperity along its shores, 
but, as well, to tempt the great numbers of those who have "always wanted 
to see the James" to carry the half-formed resolution into efTect. They are 
offered a tour unrivaled in thrilling historic interest, comfort and variety by 
any similar journey in America. 

The James River gathers its crystal waters in many secluded vallevs in- 
denting the eastward slope of the Alleghany Mountains, among the forest- 
bound western counties of Virginia, and winding through hundreds of pic- 
turesque miles — now sleeping in murky pools, famous for the gamey bass, 
and then pouring, in a hurrying tempest of foam, through rocky defiles, it 
finally becomes the servant of commerce at Richmond. Here the last of 



the rapids disturb the course of the stream, endowing Richmond's factories 
with abundant, but only partially employed, water power, and then the 
river and the tides of the sea are merged. Here begins our story. 

RICHMOND, 

The capital city by the James, presents to the eye of the new comer from 
whatever direction of approach, a most pleasing appearance. Its central 
feature is the dignified Capitol building, upon the brow of the highland 




WASHINGTON MONUMENT AND CAPITOL BUILDING, RICHMOND. 

which slopes downward thence to the swift river, covered with a wide ex- 
panse of commercial streets and substantial public, business and private 
buildings. The hotels are all in the immediate vicinity of the historic Cap- 
itol and its beautiful green square, which is the glory of the city. The 
new State Library rises to the left or east of the Capitol, and behind it is 
the costly City Hall. 

THE OLD CAPITOL BUILDING. 

The corner-stone for the State Capitol of Virginia was laid in 1785. In 
the rotunda stands Houdon's statue of Washington, which is regarded as 

6 



one of the most faithful counterfeit presentments of the "Father of our 
Country" in existence. Houdon's bust of Lafayette is near the statue. 
The Senate chamber was used during the Civil War by the Confederate 
House of Representatives. This room, the hall of the House of Delegates 
opposite, and the rotunda gallery, contain numerous paintings and por- 
traits of great historical value. 

















^P 








i 








r 


IHB'i^^ - 





NEW CITY HALL AND CAPITOL SQUARE, RICHMOND. 

The Land Office contains the oldest State records in America, being 
continuous from 1620. The State Library contains 40,000 volumes, which 
are in the new building. Visitors are admitted to the roof, which com- 
mands a grand view of the scene of many conflicts. 

The grounds are adorned by an imposing equestrian statue of Wash- 
ington, by Crawford, with the six figures of Patrick Henry, Thomas Jeffer- 
son, George Mason, Thomas Nelson, Jr., John Marshall and Andrew 
Lewis grouped below. It was completed since the war. Statues of 
Henry Clay and T. J. (Stonewall) Jackson are near by. 



NEW STATE LIBRARY. 

Hie beautiful building destined to contain the wealth of volumes be- 
longing to the State of Virginia, long stored in the Old Capitol, adds ano- 
ther to the many modern attractions of the city. It faces the Capitol, from 
which it is separated by a grassy interval only. 

NEW CITY HALL. 

The most costly structure in Richmond is the fine City Hall upon Broad 
street, opposite the Capitol. 



MANY RECENT ARCHITECTURAL ADDITIONS. 

The architects of Richmond are to be credited with a fine array of large 
and attractive buildings, as well as a pleasing reform in the art of house- 
building. The Chamber of Commerce, Planters Bank, Y. M.C.A Hall, 

Masonic Temple, Times Build- 
ing, Union Passenger Stations, and 
numerous great factories are in evi- 
dence, as well as many blocks of 
beautiful residences along Frank- 
lin and other fashionable streets. 

THE HISTORICAL 

ROUND. 

Strangers in town with a few 
hours of leisure rarely forego the 
carriage tour to see the carefully 
preserved landmarks with which 
the heavy hand of war endowed 
Richmond. These may be briefly 
summarized as follows : JefT Davis 
Mansion, or "White House of the 
Confederacy," Site of Libby 
Prison, "Castle Thunder," Libby 
Hill and new Confederate Soldiers' 
Monument, Oakwood Cemetery, 
POWHATAN'S GRAVE, NEAR RICHMOND. Containing gtaves of 16,000 Con- 




federates, Gamble's Hill, overlooking Belle Isle, once a prison camp for 
hapless Federal captives, the Tredegar Iron Works, and the bridges span- 
ning the James ; Hollywood Cemete.-y, wherein an impressive stone pyra- 
mid rises among the graves of ii,ooo Confederates, and where are buried 
the Confederate Generals, A. P. Hill, George E. Pickett, William Smith, 
J. E. B. Stuart, Commodore Maury and many famous men who died in 
earlier days, including Presidents Monroe, Tyler and Jefferson Davis. 
There is also to be seen the lofty monument bearing the equestrian figure 
of General Robert E Lee, the Hill statue upon the Hermitage road and 
Wickham statue in Monroe Park, the Soldiers' and Sailors' monument on 
Libby Hill, the Richmond Howitzers' monument, and the Stonewall Jack- 
son monument. 

ANTE-BELLUM RELICS. 

These include the Monumental Church, on which site the memorable 
Richmond Theatre was burned, St. John's Church, "Washington Head- 
quarters," old Bell Towner in the Capitol grounds, and the reputed grave 
of Powhatan. 

DRIVES TO BATTLEFIELDS. 

Carriages will make special trips to any of the following fields : Yellow 
Tavern, 4 miles; Mechanicsville, 5>^ miles; Cold Harbor, 10 miles; 
Gaines' Mill, 8 miles; Fair Oaks and Seven Pines, 8>^ miles, l^he lat- 
ter, as well as White Oak Swamp, may be reached by rail. 

Note.— For the visitor in and around the city, the concise "Guide to Richmond and the 
Battlefields," by Mr. W. D. Chesterman, editor of the Richmond Dispatch, and to which the 
author of this book is indebted for much information, is heartily recommended. 

POPULATION AND PROSPERITY. 

For Richmond and her suburbs, including Manchester across the river, 
a population is claimed of 115,000, of which rather more than two-thirds 
are whites 

About one thousand manufacturing concerns employ 21,350 hands, who 
earn wages annually amounting to about |8, 500, 000, and which employ a 
capital of $17,000,000, with a product of 535,000,000. The jobbing trade 
amounts to $43,400,789. The sales of leaf tobacco are about 59,000,000, 
and the value of manufactured tobacco exceeds |i2,ooo,ooo Iron manu- 
factures, including locomotives, marine engines, carriages and agricuitu- 



ral implements, are only second to tobacco in point of magnitude- Lum- 
ber, flour and fertilizers are large items. The grocery and provision trade 
aggregates about $20,000,000, and cotton figures to $1,500,000* 

The tax valuations of Richmond and Manchester are $70,500,000. 

The sands of the past year have been weighed in the balance apd not 
found wanting. As those in the new glass begin to find their level, there 
is only hope that amounts to conviction, and faith in the future that is 
based on the solid foundation of a great achievement. 

No year in the history of Richmond has been so emphatically and un- 
equivocally successful as 1902. The growth has not in any sense been 
perfunctory, but in every department of commerce it has been distinct and 
emphatic. Every record of the past, save one, has been broken, and not 
broken merely, but completely, outdistanced by the great totals that the 
dead year rolled up. The rich legacy that 1902 leaves to the tenderling, 
is a world of enthusiasm born of memorable achievement, and great con- 
tracts that promise to carry the new year on a tidal wave of success, even 
beyond the limits set by its predecessor. 

The growth of the business enterprises of Richmond in 1902 has not 
been the result of an ecstatic boom. There have been no extraordinary 
influences to merely inflate totals doomed to collapse in the early future, 
like an overstrained balloon. Instead, the growth has been conservative, 
steady, even, and the result of prosperous times, progressive measures, and 
the fulfillment of enterprising ideas. 

The year 1902 has been notable for the many improvements inaugurated. 
First, and foremost, comes the solution of the clear water problem which 
has vexed men's souls ever since the city mains have been filled with the 
unattractive fluid that the James river has brought to our doors. The 
placing of the electric wires underground was a distinct advance along 
progressive lines, and the result of this enterprising achievement is yet to 
be fully realized. 

The connections of the \'irginia Navigation Company ai Richmond, 
are elsewhere given in detail. 

Passengers arriving in the afternoon who may wish to spend the night 
upon board of the steamer Poc.AHONT.AS (alternate nights only), will be pro- 
vided with staterooms and meals. The wharf at Rocketts is reached by 
electric car or carriage- It is near the foot of Libby Hill, at the head of 
navigation, eastern end of the city. 

* Reports of Richmond Dispatch. January 1st, 1903. 

10 




^ -TTrrBrTrTPWi'Tr.- .^ 



JSfe-ts— <—'—*" 



^^m 



STEAMER POCAHONTAS APPROACHING RICHMOND. 

THE PALACE STEAMER POCAHONTAS. 

No steam vessel so entirely suited to first-class travel in points of ele- 
gance, speed, safety and comfort in all weathers, as the new Pocahontas, 
has ever before been seen in southern waters. 

The Pocahontas was built at Wilmington, Del., and embodies many 

new and artistic features. She 
cost $150,000. The hull is 
of steel, length over all 204 
feet, breadth of beam 57 feet, 
depth of hold 10 feet. Speed 
twenty miles per hour. 

Upon the main deck, in 
addition to the freight and 
baggage space forwards, are 
the social hall and separate 
parlor saloons for lady pas- 
sengers and servants respect- 
ively. The purser's office and 
mail agent's room are also 
upon this deck. The large 
dining-room below is fur- 
nished in exquisite taste, and 
the menu equals in quality and 
varietvthat of the best hotels. 




LAUNCH OF THE POCAHONTAS. 



11 



The promenade deck is open fore and aft, the enclosed portion forming 
large elegantly furnished saloons, finished in ivory and gold, to which is 
added during the winter season a roomy sun parlor covering a portion of 
the forward deck and giving a protective outlook upon either side and in 
front. A range of staterooms, large and richly furnished, extends upon 
either side. Private card-rooms, suggestive of the cozy comfort in a palace 
car smoking compartment, are also a part of the conveniences which will 
win the praise of many travelers. Upon either side of the grand stairway 
are pretty semi-circular private parlors, draped with silk curtains. 

The central feature of the steamer is the large and costly electric orches- 




PRIVATE PARLOR, STEAMER POCAHONTAS. 



trion, upon which the choicest selections of popular composers are performed 
during the trip, with the excellence and effect of a band of thirt\^ pieces. 

The motive machinery of the steamer is of the highest class, and she is 
heated throughout with steam and lighted by electricity. 

Three new boilers have recently been installed, and no expense has 
been spared to insure comfort and safety for passengers. These boilers 
were built by the Newport News Shipbuilding and Dry Dock Company. 

The hurricane deck is open to passengers, where plenty of seating room 
is provided. An electric search-light apparatus crowns the pilot house. 

13 



A PAGE FOR THE OLD SOLDIER. 

war's dread arithmetic 

The estimated cost of the Civil War to the Federal treasury was $5,000,- 
000,000. The total number of Union troops and sailors in the service was 
2,778,304, of which the naval force was 105,963. Those who were killed 
or died of wounds numbered 359,528 in the army and 4,588 in the navy. 
The Union forces were composed of men from 38 States and Territories and 
the District of Columbia. 

The four States of New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio and Illinois furnished 
about one-half the total number of volunteers. 

Delaware furnished the largest number of men in proportion to her pop- 
ulation. The average age of the enlisted men was 25 years. The Union 
armies included a total of 2,047 regiments of all arms. 

The total number of Confederate soldiers is estimated to have been 
about 700,000 men, and the death rate from battle and sickness is believed 
to have been more than double that of the Federal armies. 

Two thousand two hundred and sixty-one battles, engagements and 
skirmishes occurred during the war. 

In the region around Richmond, which was involved in the long cam- 
paigns against the city, more than 400 contests took place. 

The largest army assembled by the Confederates at any time was 94,138 
men in the "Seven Days' Battles" near Richmond, in which they met the 
largest Union force, which numbered 118,769. 

In hundreds of battles the valor of the troops upon both sides won the 
admiration of the nations of the whole world. 

MILE-STONES OF TIME. 

1524. James River explored by Lucas Vasquez d'Ayllon. 

1526. Ayllon obtained a charter for colonizing the James River from 
Charles V., of Spain, and locates a town called San Miguel, near the site 
of Jamestown. 

1584. First expedition of Walter Raleigh lands upon the coast near 
Hatteras, and names the region "\'irginia," in honor of the virgin Queen 
of England, Elizabeth, Walter Raleigh knighted. 

1585. Sir Walter Raleigh's colony in seven ships arrived upon the 
present coast of North Carolina. 

1586. The colony is visited by the fleet of Sir Francis Drake. 

14 



1587. Raleigh sends a third colony to Roanoke Island, which was 
followed by a massacre of the colonists by Indians under Powhatan. 

1606. Grant of patent to the Virginia companies at London. 

1607. First English settlement in America made upon the James River, 
at Jamestown. Captain John Smith saved from execution by Pocahontas. 

1608. Jamestown colony greatly reduced by death from fevers and In- 
dians, 

1609. Expedition under Sir Thomas Gates reached Jamestown. 

1 6 10. Expedition of Lord De la Ware arrived at Jamestown. 

161 1. Arrival of Sir Thomas Dale. Settlement of the towns of Hen- 
rico, near the present Dutch Gap canal, and Bermuda city. 

1616. Princess Pocahontas arrived in London as the wife of John 
Rolfe, the first Virginian tobacco planter. 

1 6 19. Governorship of Sir George Yeardley upon the James River. 
Arrival of one hun- 
dred young women 
for w ives First 
American Legisla- 
ture assembled in 
the chuich at James- 
tow n _ 




fi- -^-^^^^feb^^ 



THE POCAHONTAS MEETING AN OLD 
DOMINION LINE STEAMER. 



1622 Go\ernorship of Sir Francis 
Wvatt. Massacre of about 350 settlers 
by Indians. 

1624. Dissolution of the Virginia 
Company in London by James I. 



15 



1629. The Duke of Norfolk proposed a settlement upon the south- 
ern shore of the James River. 

1633. Arrival of the Catholic colony of Lord Baltimore at the Capes 
of the Chesapeake en route to found Baltimore city. 

1642. Sir William Berkeley arrived at Jamestown as Governor of the 
Colony of Virginia. 

1644. Massacre of colonists by Indians. 

1647. The colony upon the James largely increased by Cavaliers, fu- 
gitive from England. 

1652. Surrender of Jamestown to the English fleet and Cromwellian 
Commissioner. 

1660. Decline of Puritanism in Virginia. 

1673. Virginia granted by the crown to the Earl of Arlington and 
Lord Culpeper. 

1676. Bacon's Rebellion. Burning of Jamestown. 

1680. Arrival of Lord Culpeper as Governor of Virginia. 

1692. Establishment of William and Mary College. 

1705. Williamsburg founded as the colonial capital. 

1710. Col. Alexander Spottswood became Governor of the Colony. 

1736. First Virginian newspaper published weekly by William Parks, 
at Williamsburg. Norfolk incorporated. 

1737. Col. William Byrd laid out the town of Richmond at the Falls 
of the James River. 




MONITOR FI.EF.T. 

16 



1765. Patrick Henry introduced the famous resolutions into the \'ir- 
ginia Legislature. 

1779. Richmond made the capital of Virginia. 

1781. Benedict Arnold, with 900 British soldiers, captured Richmond. 
Cornwallis surrendered at Yorktown. 

1 8 19. Work commenced on Fort Monroe at Old Point Comfort. 

1861-65. Civil War. 

DOWN THE RIVER. 

History begins to unroll her time-stained scroll when the hawsers of the 
Pocahontas are cast from the wharf. She beckons the traveler astern for 
a backward look along the slopes of Richmond, glowing in the morning 
sunshine. 

Slowly she swings down the contracted stream past busy workshops 
crowding the verge of the shore, with a glimpse of "Powhatan" above, 
just where the groups of tall cedars stand, then passing the government 
rock-drills anchored over a granite reef, fragments of which half fill a muddy 
scow. Here were the sunken vessels and there the torpedoes lay to keep 
the Yankee gun-boats out if they should happen to steal past the watchful 
batteries at Drewry's Bluff. These monsters, once such dread ogres, slum- 
bered peacefully in the stream, seven of them, on the verv best terms 
with Richmond and the deserted ramparts hidden in the wildwood all 
around them. 

For many years several of the veteran monitors, among them the Man- 
hattan, Mahopac, Lehigh, Catskill, Wyandotte and Canonicus were an- 
chored in the James River, at first at City Point, but afterwards, in order to 
preserve the hulls from fouling, they were kept in fresh water. Ranged 
along the southern bank, with a pleasant background of verdure to relieve 
the color of awnings and fiags, they presented an attractive picture. Upon 
the north shore, near where the monitors w^re, is 

WARWICK PARK, devoted to local excursions via the steamers of 
the \'irginia Navigation Company. A large dancing pavilion and lunch 
hall is half hidden in the midst of plentiful shade. 

The general government has expended large sums upon this portion of 
the river in the work of deepening the channel which is now rather more 
than 18 feet and will be increased in time to 21 feet. In this effort a series 
of jetties have been built at right angles to the shore line. Opposite jetty 
No. loi, not far inland, upon Falling Creek, once stood the hrst iron 

17 



foundry in the new world, the hamlet being called "Ampthill." Here it 
is said was also located the first mill to produce flour for export to South 
America. Just below "Ampthill," at a copse of trees upon the hillside, 
occurred in the year 1622, the massacre of about 250 English settlers by 
Indians. The great chief, Powhatan, whose daughter had married an 
English colonist and adopted, with the self-abnegation of a Ruth, the 
ways of his people, had gone to the happy hunting grounds. His younger 
brother, Opechananough, had succeeded to his great authority. Cherish- 
ing a long-seated hatred of the stranger whites, he carried into partial 




WARWICK PARK. 



effect upon March 22d, of that year, a scheme to end the English aggres- 
sion upon the James Ri\er. His victims were principally found at the 
outposts of the parent colony of Jamestown, located at Ampthill, Henrico 
upon Farrar's Island, near the present Dutch Gap Canal, and Bermuda 
Hundred, near the mouth of the Appomattox River. News of the slaugh- 
ter reached Jamestown by escaping settlers in time to prepare an effective 
defense. 

IMie estate of Wilton is upon the north shore opposite this tragic site, 
and Wilton Creek, where the gunboats were anchored, enters here. 

18 



DREWRY'S BLUFF. 

About eight miles below Richmond is still to be seen the outline of 
the famous fort at Drevvry's Bluff. It occupies the crest of an abrupt 
elevation and commands a considerable reach of the stream below. 

The place was named in honor of Major A. H. Drewry, who com- 
manded one of the batteries of heavy artillery raised for the defense of 
Richmond, in April, 1862. When it became evident that Norfolk would 
soon be evacuated by the Confederates and the capital thus exposed to 
Federal attack by means of their gunboats, Major Drewry made applica- 




OI.F. VIRGINNV HOME. 



tion to the authorities at Richmond for the removal of his command to such 
a point upon the river as might be selected for its obstruction and the 
erection of a fort for this purpose. l^his was readily granted, and Major 
Rives of the engineers' department was detailed to select a site. At first 
it was thought that Howlett's Bluff at the head of the horse-shoe formed 
by a wide detour of the river further down the stream would be the most 
advantageous place on account of the greater elevation and more uniform 
depth of water, as well as the abundance of timber to be had upon either 

19 







^-.. A'/^^^ ^ w^'5'"'^ 



-.^.- -/J" J, 






20 



bank for the obstructions, but it soon occurred to Major Rives that the 
enemy might readily cut a canal through the narrow neck at Dutch Gap, 
and thus neutralize all of the laborious defense, and expose the city to 
almost certain capture. As a result Drewry's Bluflf was fixed upon, and 
the command of Major Drewry was sent hither. This detachment was 
composed mainly of farmers from the county of Chesterfield, many of whom 
were beyond the age of conscription. These soldiers, both by personal 
labor and the use of their teams, rendered valuable aid to Lieutenant 
Mason, who had been assigned as engineer to the completion of the fort 
and the obstructions, and later on the Confederate Government gave more 
active aid, and early in May, when the situation had become more alarm- 
ing in Richmond, the citizens furnished material help in supplying rock to 
fill in the obstructions. 

Upon the 13th of May, when Norfolk had been captured by the Fed- 
eral forces, the Union fieet under command of Lieutenant Rogers, was seen 
to anchor about two miles below at the wharf of Mr. R. A. Willis, where 
it remained two days, doubtless to ascertain the location of the fort and the 
strength of its garrison. Upon the morning of the r5th they moved, and 
were allowed to take position without molestation. The flag-ship Galena 
and the original Monitor came abreast and anchored about five hundred 
yards below the fort, the iron-clads Naugatuck, Aroostook, Port Royal 
and other armed vessels locating several hundred yards below them. 
About seven o'clock, when all was ready, the attack was made by the fleet 
with about twenty guns, and promptly answered from the fort in which 
were two Columbiads of eight inch calibre and one of ten inches, and the 
fight continued for several hours, until an eight inch gun which had been 
casemated outside of the fort was brought into use, when at half-past 
eleven the ships weighed anchor and retired down stream, much to the joy 
of the Confederates in the fort, who thus gained the thanks of the people 
of Richmond and the special recognition of Congress. Subsequently it 
was made a naval post and became a very Gibraltar in strength, with 
Commodore Lee in command, but no further attempt was made during 
the war to reduce this important work. For the facts in this case the 
writer is indebted to the late Major Drewry, who lived at Westover until 
his death occurred in July, 1899. At his beautiful estate genuine old- 
fashioned \'irginia hospitality was dispensed. 

CHAFFIN'S BLUFF, nearly opposite Drewry's Bluff is covered with 
redoubts and rifle pits now hidden among the wild scrub growth of nearly 
thirty years. 

21 



Fort Harrison and Fort Gilmer (Confederate) are in sight upon Chaf- 
fin's Bluflf. The former was stormed upon September 29, 1864. by two 
corps of Butler's army, chiefly 
blacks, but the latter was suc- 
cessfully defended. 

Between the yellow bluffs and 
dense ramparts of verdure there 
are glimpses of prosperous look- 
ing farms, becoming more nu- 
merous as the steamer proceeds. 




Dt 1 tH CAP. 



DUTCH GAP CANAL. 

The river winds in great loops among the low hills; this characteristic 
and the necessity of avoiding certain heavy batteries at Howletts having 
led General Butler to attempt the Yankee trick of digging a cut-off at a 
point which would have shortened the stream about 7 miles. The work was 
pushed by swarming soldiers night and day, but was not completed at the 
time. In 1871-2 engineers deepened it to its present practicable condition. 

Farrar's Island is formed by this canal, and here was once the settle- 
ment of Henrico, commenced in 161 1 by Sir Thomas Gates and 350 men 
from Jamestown, of which one Ralph Hamor, Secretary of the Colony, 
wrote : 

"There is in this towne three streets of well framed houses, a hansom 
church, and a foundation of a more stately one laid, of brick, in length 
a hundred foote. and fifty foote wide, besides store-houses, watch-houses, 
and such like ; there are also on the verge of the river five block-houses. 
with centinelles for the towne's security." 





r^^i'^mmim^-''^^^^M 



22 



Henrico was chosen as the site for the Colonial College about 1619, 
and money was raised in England tor the purpose. Mr. George Thorp, 
who was engaged here in superintending the preliminary work, was one 
of the numerous victims of the Indian massacre which occurred in 1622 and 
from which the promising little community never recovered. 

Bishop Meade, who is held to have been accurate authority upon early 
Virginia affairs, attributes the name of Dutch Gap to the indications of an 
effort bv Dutch settlers to shorten the channel at this point. 




VARINA OR AIKIN'S LANDING. 

The name of this point upon the north shore was once familiar to 
northern readers of war news, as a flag of truce rendezvous for the exchange 
of prisoners. Here lived Mrs. Rolfe. nee Pocahontas, after her marriage. 
The red brick house was the meeting point for officers of the Federal and 
Confederate armies. 

Varina was one of the great properties of the Randolph family, and 
one of the latest held by them. The name was derived from \ anna, in 
Spain, famous for its tobacco. 

23 



wirjm 




MONTPELIER, HOME OF PRESIDENT MADISON. 



The name of Randolph is among the most conspicuous and glorious in 
the annals of not only the State of Virginia but of the country at large. 

William Randolph, of Turkey Island, was the first of the family in 
America. He was a member of the Council and Colonial Treasurer. 
Among his descendants who achieved fame in public affairs were Peyton 
Randolph, president of the first Congress, held at Philadelphia ; Beverley 
Randolph, Governor of Virginia; 
John Randolph, Member of Con- 
gress and Minister to Russia, and 
Edmund Randolph, Secretary of 
State of the United States and Gov- 
ernor of Virginia. 

The Randolph estates in Vir- 
ginia, along the James River, 
were Tuckahoe, Dungeness, 
Chatsworth, Wilton, Varina, 
Curls, Bremo and Turkey Island. fishing bcat. 




24 




DEEP BOTTOM. 



A fishing hamlet indicates the spot in front of which, beneath the 
swirling waters, a Federal gunboat lies, destroyed with a loss of forty-tive 
men, by a torpedo, in 1864. 

MEADOWVILLE, the first regular landing made by the steamer, is 
upon a broad area of land almost enclosed by the river rising pleasantly 
in the background but low and level in front. This rich alluvial portion 
was thoroughly reclaimed by systematic dyking, under the direction of the 
late Mr. Edward E. Barney, then president of the steamboat company. 
He was largely engaged in agricultural development at several points upon 
the river, including Jamestown. 

25 



Mr. Barney was president of the \'irginia Navigation Company from 
its incorporation in 1893 until his death, which occurred at Meadowville, 
in August, 1896. His widow, Mrs. Louise J. Barney, resides at Meadow- 
ville and also owns Jamestown Island. 

CURL'S NECK. 

The property at this landing, as elsewhere stated, once belonged to the 
historic Randolph family. It is now owned by Mr. Charles H. SenfT, 



1 * ! 






..u -;;-^-^ -r laui^ 


1. . '.^li^UL, - -^ -^- - 


■-^ 



CURr.S NECK. 

of New York. Now the steamer rounds Curl's Neck, touches at Presque 
Isle, (owned by Mr. A. D. Williams, of Richmond), and entering Tur- 
key Bend, brings into view, upon a high clearing, the historic house of 
Malvern Hill. It is just to the right of a large red-roofed barn. The 
battle of Malvern Hill was one of the bloodiest of the Ci\ il War. Tur- 
key Island plantation was the home of General Pickett. 



25 



A NOTE I FON THE PENINSULAR CAMPAIGN. 

It may be acceptable to the reader to introduce, at this point, an out- 
line of the series of events which culminated in the liattle of Malvern 
Hill, as a part of McClellan's campaign, ending so ing!oriously in the 
embarkation of his splendid army from Harrison's Landing, and which 
in its entirety has been called the "Peninsular Campaign." 

About the middle of March, 1862, General McClellan notified his army 
that the advance into the enemy's territory was to begin. The Federal 
troops from this time until they had been conducted across the Chicka- 
hominy River, five months later, were constantly upon the move, and were 
subjected to the deadly miasma of the great swamps of this almost unin- 
habited region. 

Yorktown was taken after deliberate siege. Then followed a series of 
fierce battles in the vicinity of Richmond, which bear the names of "Wil- 
liamsburg," May 4th; "Hanover Court House," May 27th; "Seven 
Pines'' or "Fair Oaks," May 31st. Then, after much and constant de- 
sultory fighting, came the engagements of "Beaver Dam Creek" or 
"Mechanicsville," June 26th ; "Cold Harbor" or "Gaines' Mills," June 
27th ; "Charles City Court House," June 30th, and each day for a week 
the two armies locked horns, giving rise to the name of the "Seven Days' 
Fight," by which this sanguinary group of contests is known among the 
veterans. The largest force gathered at any time in the Federal army is 
shown upon the Commander's report, June 14th, when the number was 
given at 158,838 men, of which 115,152 combatants were present for duty; 
the Confederate force is approximated at 100,000. 

Savage's Station and Frazier's Farm were fought, and finally, upon 
June 29th, at Malvern Hill, were gathered 90,000 Federal troops face to 
face with about 50,000 Confederates, where, upon July ist, the Confede- 
rates assaulted a tremendous array of Union batteries, which tore their brig- 
ades into shreds, and despite the fact that the Union position remained 
untaken, the following morning found the Commanding General actively 
engaged in hurrying his great force upon a retreat to the banks of the 
James River, thus effecting the much derided "change of base" to Harri- 
son's Landing, where he proceeded to make himself comfortable. 

The swamps and woods of the Peninsula were filled with the dead of 
both contestants, and there was mourning in the homes of the North and 
South alike. 

The number of killed, wounded and missing in the campaign was, 

27 



irrespective of the heavy death-rate from sickness, of almost unexampled 
magnitude upon both sides. The following are the official figures of the 
Federal losses : 

Killed. Wounded. Captured. Missing. 

May 5, Williamsburg 456 1,410 373 2,239 

May 7, West Point 48 no 28 186 

May 27, Hanover Court House 62 223 70 355 

May 3 r , Fair Oaks 790 3 . 594 647 5 ,03 1 

June 26, Mechanicsville 49 207 105 361 

June 27, Gaines' Mills S94 3.107 2,836 6,837 

June 28, Golding's Farm 37 227 104 368 

June 29, Savage Station 80 412 i ,098 i ,590 

June 30, Glendale 210 1.513 1,1 30 2,853 

July I, Malvern Hill 397 2,092 725 3,214 

Total 23 ,034 

Seven Days' Battle, Virginia— Peninsular Campaign, 1862. 

Killed i>734 

Wounded ... 8,062 

Missing 6,053 

Total 15, 849 

The substantial old house upon Malvern Hill was left practically un- 
harmed by the fight around it. It was built by a French family and 
owned at the time of the battle by B. F. Dew. Near by is an earthwork 
said to have been built by Washington during the war of the Revolution. 

SHIRLEY. 

This estate is one of the oldest upon the ri\er. It is claimed that the 
residence was built in 1642. It is the birthplace of Annie Carter, of the 
prominent colonial family of that name, who married "Light Horse Harry 
Lee" of the Revolution, and who was the mother of General Robert E. 
Lee. 

BERMUDA HUNDRED. 

This name, as applied to the settlement near the mouth of the Appo- 
mattox river, greatly mystified Northern readers of a generation ago, when, 

28 



as the base of General B. F. Butler's operations it began to figure largelv 
.n the daily newspaper war despatches. This outpost of Jamestown was 
largely settled by persons who had been shipwrecked on the Bermudas and 
the old colonial subdivision of villages by which each hundred colonists 
were placed under the authority of a captain, is still preserved in Virginia 
nomenclature. The dingy village of to-day carries little suggestion of the 




energy of its founders or of the vast activity here in 1864, the only marks 
of which are numerous decaying logs projecting from the water where the 
Government wharves once stood, l^he Farmville &: Powhatan Railroad 
terminates here. 



29 



CITY POINT. 

From this landing a railroad extends nine miles to Petersburg, from 
which no doubt the somewhat ambitious name is derived. Trains connect 
with the steamers both up and down the river. The village, like Bermuda 
Hundred, is more picturesque than progressive, although there is an occa- 
sional modern house within the view, prettily environed in its verdure. A 
fine old mansion upon the promontory at the meeting of the waters of the 
Appomattox and James rivers, was used by General Grant as headquarters 
during the operations around Petersburg. The little log structure which 
was built for his office was removed after the war to Fairmount Park, Phil- 
adelphia. The homestead is the property of Major Epps. 




.E^' HAKI.O 



PETERSBURG. 



The historical student or interested traveler may well spend a day at 
Petersburg, which is invested with an interest in connection with the war 
only second to that of Richmond. The city itself has some quaint features, 
which have been preserved, despite the changes of many prosperous years. 

30 



but the centre of interest is in the \icinity of the "Mine," a ijreat crater 
of red subsoil still marking the scene of one of the most thrilling affairs of 
the war, in the course of which a Confederate fort was blown into the air by 
means of a tunnel excavated secretly by a regiment of Pennjylvania miners. 
The charge following the awful explosion resulted in fearful slaughter 
of the Union assailants, due to the incapacity of the officer in immediate 
command. This badly managed affair occurred upon July 30, 1864. Pe- 
tersburg was abandoned by the Confederate forces only after the fall of 
Richmond eight months later. One week after this came Appomattox, 
the number surrendering at that point being 28,805, ^^^^ thus virtually 
ended the greatest and most destructive of modern wars. 




^^^ !*-lf 



CI lY POINT. 



FROM WAR TO PEACE. 

Not far from the fateful ravine which separated the contending forces 
in front of the "crater" at Petersburg, still stands the ruin of the colonial 
Blandford church, dating from 1735. lender the shadow of its walls are 
the sculptured tombs of cavaliers and olden families, who rested undis- 



31 




.» BIANinORD C HURCH, PF.rKRSBURG. 



turbed, though the tight and carnage raged all around them. The follow 
ing verses were written man}- years ago upon the walls of the old church 



Thou art crumbliiiji to the dust, old pilt 

Thou art hastening to thy fall. 
And 'round thee in thy loneliness 

Clings the ivy to the wall. 
The worshipers are scattered now 

Who met before thy shrine. 
And silence reigns where anthems rose 

In days of Old Lang Syne. 

And sadly sighs the wandering wind 

Where oft, in years gone by, 
Prayers rose from many hearts to Him, 

The highest of the high ; 
The tramp of many a heavy foot 

That sought thy aisles is o'er. 
And many a weary heart around 

Is still forever more. 



32 




MAJOR EPP S HOUSE, CITY POINT. 

How doth ambition's hope take wing. 

How droops the spirit now. 
We hear the distant city's din. 

The dead are mute below ; 
The sun that shone upon their paths 

Now gilds their lonely graves, 
The zephyrs which once fanned their brows. 

The grass above them waves. 

Oh ! could we call the many back, 

Who've gathered here in vain. 
Who've careless roved where we do now. 

Who'll never meet again: 
How would our very souls be stirred 

To meet the earnest gaze 
Of the lovely and the beautiful, 

The lights of other days. 

A recent article in the Richmond Dispatch states that the lines were 
written by Miss Eliza L. Hening, of Richmond, about the year 1820. 

BERKELEY AND WESTOVER. 

Again upon the deck of the Pocahontas, we are approaching Berke- 
ley and Westover, two grand old estates upon the northern shore of the 
broadening river. The wharf is about midway between the manor-houses. 



33 



Berkeley is the natal-place of the first President Harrison, and is still 
in the Harrison family, of which ex-President Benjamin Harrison was a 
member. 

Berkeley is better known to the Northern soldiers and people as Harri- 
son's Landing, which was long the headquarters of General McClellan 
after his retreat from Malvern Hill, At that time there were not less than 
six hundred war vessels and transports anchored in the river near by, and 
the river shore for miles was covered with the camps of the soldiers. 

Harrison's Landing was later used as a place for the exchange of pris- 
oners. 




GK.ANT S HEADQUARTERS, CITY POINT. 

Westover has been made famous by frequent writers and errant artists. 
The reader to whom the Century Magazine of June, 1891, is accessible, 
will find therein a most entertaining and well illustrated chapter regarding 
this most hospitable and well kept memento of a by-gone era. 

Westover was originally the property of Sir John Paulet, by whom it 
was transferred to two brothers named Bland, from whom, in turn, it was 



34 




DINING ROOM— STEAMER POCAHONTAS. 



acquired by Colonel William Byrd, of Belvidere, a place now known as 
Gamble's Hill, one of Richmond's parks overlooking the James River. 
The son of the original American colonist of this ancient English family 
laid out the town of Richmond near his father's wilderness estate. Colonel 
William Byrd the second built upon his lands at Westover a most excel- 
lent house, in 1737, which is a beautiful example of the colonial style, as 
our illustration fully indicates. Westover is rich in historic reminiscence. 
Thirty-three persons perished here in the massacre of 1622. During the 
Revolution the traitor Arnold came here with his British troops upon the 
way to Richmond, and Cornwallis' raiding cavalry stabled their horses 
in its rooms. During the Civil War it was occupied by General Pope 
and other Union officers. The story of the beautiful Evelyn Byrd. whose 
tomb is here, is among the most pathetic of Virginia's crowded annals of 



35 



" knightly men and ladyes faire," who were oft guests of " Will Byrd, 
Gentleman," the Black Szian, who sleeps in his canopied tomb close by 
his stately homestead. 

Westover was for thirty years the property of Major A. H. Drewry. 

WINDMILL POINT 

Is indicated upon the southern shore of the river by a white lighthouse. 
Here and at Fort Powhatan, a few miles below, two pontoon bridges were 
laid, and in two days 130,000 Federal troops crossed to invest Petersburg. 




WESTOVER GATE. 



WILLCOX LANDING 

Is a fishery village. In the season large numbers of black river-men are 
busy with seines, the principal catches being shad and sturgeon. The 
latter are very plentiful, and their immense carcasses are shipped to market 
from the landings all along the river. Sturgeon roe is sent in half barrels 
to New York whence it is repacked to Russia to be made into caviare. 
This industry lends a picturesque quality to the frequent landings which 
usually project far out from a shore-line bordered by yellow reaches of 
sand beach where the batteaux of the fishers are drawn up and their net- 
ting hung to dry. 

37 



Just below Willcox's, Queen's creek enters the James, and upon its 
banks, but a little ride inland, is Charles City Court House, where a part 
of the "seven days fighting" occurred. 

WEYANOKE. 

Here we meet another name of historic flavor, and which has its grue- 
some tale of Indian massacre. The residence is of frame and is surrounded 
by a broad plantation. 




A NATIVE RIG. 



The passing traveler, observant of the varied onlookers thronging the 
rude wharves as the steamer comes and goes, may find much to interest and 
amuse. All of Kemble's types, in both white and black, are there, but 
one's admiration is provoked for the handsome planters, brown and athletic, 
often, it must be confessed, "Colonels" and "Majors" very likely by 
good right of service, and for the slim pretty Virginia girls who come 
down the winding roads from unseen domiciles, for the mail, or to welcome 
school-girl friends to some Eutopia of Old Dominion hospitality. Every- 
body on board, except outside barbarians like the writer, knows the 
"Colonel" and the young ladies, wherefore there is a lively interchange 
of pretty badinage, in the soft accent of the region, the sweetest English 
in all the world. 

Building materials, new farm machinery, furniture and similar freight 
landed all along the river from the steamer proclaim present prosperity. 

39 



Not far below Westover is located the property of Sherwood Forest, 
the birth place of John Tyler, tenth President of the United States. The 
house and outbuildings are of wood, but are still in good repair. 

FORT POWHATAN. 

Unlike a very large number of places in the United States bearing this 
warlike prefix, where no fort is in evidence and probably never existed, Fort 
Powhatan is visible to the traveler in the form of a heavy stone wall from 
which a sandy beach slopes prettily down to the water and the nets of 
fishers, their boats and the litter of a small waterside communitv is strewn 




WEVANOKE— RIVER FRONT. 



about. Long ago great trees grew above the rocky escarpment ; wild vines 
clamber along the stony front, the guns are gone or buried. The interior 
parade has been filled in with material from the blufT behind, and a small 
country store and usual post office proclaim the era of peace from the midst 
of the scene. Fort Powhatan played a part in the war of 1812 and was 
garrisoned by the Confederates. What midnight alarms, what beating of 
drums to man the guns, what vigils of lonely sentries scanning the far 
away tides, and what assaults and defense have been known in and around 

41 



Old Fort Powhatan, may be left to the fancy of the reader who gazes upon 
it comfortably, while the purser is busy on the little wharf and the captain 
stands by to ring the starting bell. In its moss clad decadence it is a thing 
of delight to an artist, for whose especial vexation these plentiful bits of 
combined nature and history come into view and are left in the wake of 
the hurrying steamboat altogether too briefly. 




FORT POWHATAN. 



There is a record that, during the Civil War, a batter}- was built upon 
the bluff above the old fort, and was of much annoyance to the Federal 
gunboats. In July, 1862, it was shelled by the Sebago. 

UPPER BRANDON. 

The two Brandons, are upon the opposite exposures of a long penin- 
sula formed upon the southern shore of the river by a wide detour of the 
stream to the northward. Brandon proper, to which we shall presents- 
come, after touching Oldfield, has its rich fund of reminiscent detail fully 
set forth for the perusal of those who may care to read, but Upper Bran- 
don with all its lovely nooks and shadows, rambles and outlooks, its sug- 
gestions of bountiful prosperity, rich hospitality, and colonial grandeur, 
has successfully eluded the gleaners of historic straws who have preceded 
the present writer, giving him no friendly hint from which to gild the 
moment of passing with truthful legends of courtly men and noble dames 
of the early days. The able writer of the last guide book made hereabout 

43 




STAIRCASE — STEAMER POCAHONTAS. 



gives the mystery up by retreating upon the statement : " It is a large and 
fine old plantation, the house is a handsome one and in good repair." 
Even the discriminating photographer, the best friend of the casual writer 
has, perhaps seen a "haunt" from Dancing Point, when he landed at 
Upper Brandon, and has retreated with unopened lens. 



STURGEON POINT 

Suggests the fishery interest which in the season engages the attention of 
a large number of men, both white and black, all along the river. Heavy 
catches of shad are sent to market and the lumbering stupid sturgeon, 
previously mentioned, who really dosen't care enough for the vanities of 
life to fight his way out of the nets, is caught in very considerable num- 
bers. There is a brick-making industry at Sturgeon Point, and schooners 
loading with the product of the kilns. 

U 




IRANDON PARLOR AND HALI.. LOWER BRANDON. 



OLDFIELD. 

Here also is a brick-yard, the clay in this vicinity being of a highly 
excellent quality for producing good building brick. 

LOWER BRANDON. 

Here is one of the few fine old places in the South which still remain 
in the hands of the decendants of those who found them, Brandon is owned 
by the Harrison family. Its walls are enriched with paintings of knightly 
men and beautiful women. Nearly all of the Presidents of the United 
States have experienced its hospitality. Its environment is rich in 
romantic suggestion. 

SANDY POINT. 

Sandy Point is opposite Claremont. A lumbering and tishing village 
is located here, and near by is Dancing Point, which has its uncanny 
traditions of ghostly terpsichoreans seen by the shivering darkies at mid- 
night. 

Not far below Sandy Point the Chickahominy River enters the James. 
This stream leads through a portion of the peninsula of great historical 
interest. In New Kent county, in addition to the war history of the 
neighborhood, stands the old church in which Washington was married. 

CLAREMONT. 

This great plantation once extended along the river, including 12,500 
acres, seven miles, and was owned by Major Wm. Allen. This wharf is 
the terminus of the James River division of the Southern Railway, con- 
necting with the Norfolk & Danville line at Emporia, fifty-five miles distant. 
This is a shipping port of growing importance. 

The forest area of this portion of the State is a rich heritage, and the 
traffic in timber is large and growing. At Claremont a group of large 
schooners is clustered around the wharves receiving cargoes of railroad 
ties and other products of the woods. 

The next stop is at Jamestown, and as a prelude to a sight of this 
famous spot, the following historical matter is here introduced : 

47 




ST. PETER S CHURCH, NEW KENT COUNTY, IN WHICH WASHIMGTON WAS MARRIED. 



A SPANISH EXPEDITION UPON THE JAMES. 



It is related by the painstaking and accurate historian, John Fisk, that 
in 1524, eighty-three years before the arrival of the English expedition 
to colonize Virginia, Lucas Vasquez d'Ayllon came from Hispanola and 
entering the James River with six hundred people and one hundred horses 
proceeded to secure a foothold. Two years later, having obtained a char- 
ter from Charles V., he began a town somewhere near Jamestown Island 
which he called San Miguel, but which, upon the death of the leader and 
many of his people from fevers, was abandoned. The Spaniards brought 
with them negro slaves, thus inaugurating here the system of slave labor in 
America. 



:^ 



JU 




48 




CAPTAIN JOHN SMITH. 

THE STORIKl) REGION OK JOHN SMITH AND THE PRINCESS POCAHONTAS. 

HE affairs of Jamestown developed no more rugged character 
I; than that of Captain John Smith, whose fame has been chiefly 
fk perpetuated by a single incident in a life unusually varied with 
strange adventure, even in the unsettled and hazardous age 
during which he lived, John Smith was the son of a Lincoln- 
shire farmer, and was born in 1579. At the age of 13 years 
his parents having died, he had become heir to a comfortable property, 
which he seemed to care but little for, inasmuch as he was bewitched with 
a desire for adventure by sea, but any sort of hazard seems to have been 
to his liking, for at fifteen years he had enlisted as a soldier in the cam- 
paigns of the Low Countries. Eight years later he was back at his native 
place and essayed the life of a hermit, reading abstruse classics, and prac- 
ticing in the saddle the sports of lance and ring. Then, again, he became 
a soldier, fighting against the Turks and having various lively or perhaps, 
more properly, deadly adventures. There is a story of his capture in the 
East and sale into captivity, and of a great combat with three Turks, 
whose heads were afterward engraved on Smith's coat of arms. 

At twenty-five years he was again in England with the rank of captain, 
at which period the great question of colonization in America was occupy- 
ing a place in the public mind. He had planned to go to South America, 
but instead, finally joined his fortunes with the expedition of the Virginia 
Company, chartered by the crown for the purpose of colonization, traffic 
and christianization of the natives. 

The expedition left England with sealed orders and the names of those 
to whom authority was given were not to be revealed before the end of the 
voyage. Captain Newport was simply the navigator engaged to take the 
fleet across the ocean. Per consequence, the idle people, restless spirits 
many of them, presently became divided into cliques, and in these conten- 
tions for the control of matters Smith had an active hand. One hundred 
and fifty idle men, four months upon a sea voyage in three small ships, are 
capable of untold mischief. John Smith had more enemies than friends 
when Virginia was sighted, and the former, who had charged him with 
mutiny during the voyage, kept him from assuming the authority with 
which the sealed orders invested him, as a member of the Council. He 
was kept under arrest. 

49 



^ 




^' -S- 



The site of Jamestown, now one of the most healthful locations in the 
valley of the James, was at the time of its selection, upon May 13, 1607, as 
a place for a settlement, most unsuited for such a purpose. 

The Indians were full of fight and the military experience of Smith a> 
well as his bravery was of much service to the colony. Upon returning 
from a trip to the Falls of the James with Captain Newport, Smith found 
that the settlement had been attacked by the savages and manv, including 
most of the Council, wounded. 

Newport returned to England on June 22, 1607, leaving one hundred 
and five settlers at Jamestown, with food for thirteen weeks. Within three 
months half of the colony had died of fever. Smith, who had finally become 
a member of the Council, and had inaugurated military regulations, worked 
with vigor in exploring, hunting and trading with the Indians for corn. 
There were few^ healthy men left in the settlement. Wingfield, the presi- 
dent, was deposed in favor of Ratcliffe. The only hope left rested in the 
return of the ships History more than hints at the practice of cannibalism 
in Jamestown in this trying time. The trip made by Smith up the Chick- 
ahominy River in December and which resulted in his capture, was one of 
a series of desperate efforts to get food for the people yet remaining alive. 
He had with him twelve men. With two men and an Indian guide he left 
his main party and continued up the stream in a canoe. Several of his 
men were killed by the Indians, but after capture he was taken to the villages 
of the nation and treated, according to his own printed story, with much 
consideration up to the time, when in the presence of King Powhatan he 
was seized preparatory to being killed with clubs, but rescued by the 
King's favorite daughter. Several versions of this event were printed in 
London, the chronicler of the period being doubtless quite as charmingly 
indifferent to mere facts as the talented journalist of to-day, and these were so 
variant as to largely discredit the entire transaction. The American people 
will not sooner give up this pleasant little morsel of history than thev will 
consent to part with the precious hatchet, which hacked the cherry tree, in 
the hands of the future Father of our Country. Let no man rise up and 
deprive us of Pocahontas and the captive Smith ! 

A few days later John Smith was released and came back to Jamestown, 
and found certain of the leaders engaged in a plot to take the pinnace and 
go back to England. This he frustrated. These men, in reprisal, con- 
demned Smith to be hanged, but the opportune return of Newport saved 
him. To the miserable remnant of forty survivors, the ships brought one 
hundred and twenty recruits, with provisions, implements and seeds. 

51 



In 1608 John Smith surveyed the Chesapeake and its tributary rivers, 
preparing a map which was remarkably correct, of the entire seaboard of 
Virginia, a copy of which can be seen on the boat. 

In that year, too, he was made president of the colony, his enemies 
having mostly returned to England. In September more men and supplies 
came, and also two women, Mistress Forrest and her maid Ann Burras, the 
latter soon finding a husband in John Laydon. Smith's energies seemed 
to have never waned in his barter with the Indians, and his efforts to keep 
the colony together, where laziness, induced by malaria and hunger, went 
hand in hand. 

In May 1609, a fleet sailed from England consisting of nine ships with 
five hundred men. Upon one of these, the Sea Adventure, the chiefs of 
the expedition, Sir Thomas Gates and Sir George Somers, took passage. 
Captain Newport as Vice- Admiral, was the navigator, Ratcliffe, Martin, 
and Archer, all opponents of the adventurer Smith, were also along. One 
of the ships of the fleet was the first sea-going vessel built in America, the 
Virginia, which had been constructed at the northern colony under George 
Popham, at the mouth of the Kennebec river two years before. Seven 
of the ships arrived in safety, one was lost at sea, and the flag ship con- 
taining the notables was unheard of until the following Spring, when it 
was learned that the Sea Adventure had been wrecked upon the reefs of the 
Bermudas, the crew and passengers being cast ashore after several days of 
great peril and suffering, and where during the winter they had been busy 
in building two small vessels in which to continue the trip. It was doubt- 
less the members of this portion of the expedition who afterward located at 
the place near the mouth of the Appomattox River, which was called the 
Bermuda Hundred. 

The career of Smith in Virginia was cut short by the explosion of a 
quantity of gunpowder in his boat while he was on a trip to the Falls of 
the James, which so injured him that he was glad to return to England 
upon one of the ships for surgical aid. When Smith departed from James- 
town he left five hundred colonists in the settlement. ITpon the arrival of 
Gates six months later, from Bermuda, he found but sixty alive. Alto- 
gether John Smith spent but two years and a half in Virginia, but he had 
by his great activity and valor so linked his name with the chain of colonial 
history that what ever his faults, many of which have been charged, he 
stands one of the principal figures in the picturesque chronicles of the Old 
Dominion. 

52 



THE STORY OF POCAHONTAS. 



OWHATAN, otherwise Mamanatowick, lived upon the north 
f? side of the stream, afterward called the \ ork River, a few mile> 
^ ^y^e, above the site of Vorktown, and when the earliest of Englisii 
\i^^.^ colonists arrived upon the James River they soon learned, doubt- 
J less, of his greatness as a native ruler, his domain extending far 
to the north, south and west of the village of Werowocomoco, which was 
the capital of his nation He was soon known as a friend of the white 
strangers, although it was whispered that the mystery of the disappearance 
of Raleigh's lost colony upon Roanoke Island could have been explained 
by him. 

The American Indian, then as ever since, was a child when pleased, 
and nothing was so easy as to gain his confidence, but when aroused by 
the demon of his natural fury, he was the most implacable and cruel foe 
the pioneer of any land ever faced. 

The colony at Jamestown was made up of all kinds of elements, and 
while it was the declared policy of the \ irginia Company and its trusted 
agents to conciliate and christianize the natives, there were, no doubt, fre- 
quent provocations of the wild children of the trackless forest, and almost 
from the beginning the vendetta of races commenced. 

Upon the loth of December, 1807, Capt. John Smith, one of the origi- 
nal company left at Jamestown when Captain Newport returned with his 
fleet to England, started upon one of his numerous tours of exploration, 
going up the Chickahominy River. As elsewhere related, the three men 
who were with him were killed, while Smith was reserved for a like fate in 
the Indian council house. He was, at this time forty years of age. The 
tale has it that he was carried from village to village, kindly entertained 
and treated altogether in a most agreeable fashion until, one day "two 
great stones were brought before Powhatan ; then as many as could laid 
hands upon him. dragged him to them, and thereon laid his head, and 
being ready with their clubs to beat out his brains. Pocahontas, the king's 
dearest daughter, when no entreaty could prevail, got his head in her arms 
and laid her own upon his to save him from death."* 

Pocahontas was, at this time, twelve or thirteen years old. The Indian 
meaning of her name is said to be "Little Wanton." 

There is a curious resemblance of the pretty story of this rescue with 

*Capt. John Smith's History of Virginia, London, 1^124. 

S3 






the experience of Juan Ortiz, one of the soldiers of De Soto, who having 
been captured by the Floridian Indians in 1539, was condemned to the 
usual torture, when the daughter of Ucita, the chief, intervened her prayers 
to her father and thus saved him, and after several years of slavery, con- 
ducted him out of the forest in safety to tell the tale and afterward to become 
a valuable intermediary between the Spaniards and the Indians.* 

After Capt. John Smith had been restored to Jamestown, it is recorded 
that Pocahontas, whose home across the narrowest portion of the Peninsula 
was but a little distance away, was often a visitor at the English settlement, 
where she was on good terms with the boys and girls, romping with them 
in her scant apparel, and it is recorded that she could turn "cart-wheels" 
with the best of the youngsters and was altogether a regular "tom-boy." 
She was usually accompanied to Jamestow^n by a wild train of Indian com- 
panions, and more than once brought warning of danger from attack. 
The consistent sequel of the story of the saving of the captive by this pretty 
Indian girl is lacking in this instance, for she did not grow up while a 
grateful John Smith waited longingly to espouse her and thus become respon- 
sible for the still greater increase through many generations, of the innum- 
erable John Smiths who now people the earth. No, she did better, for in 
time she married a respectable and altogether desirable young man named 
John Rolfe, who was the first planter of Tobacco in Virginia, and who had 
learned to love the comely young savage while she was held a prisoner at the 
Fort in Jamestown by Captain Argall as a hostage for the return of certain 
settlers and property captured by her royal parent. 

Pocahontas had, about this time, been baptized as a convert to Chris- 
tianity under the name of Rebecca. 

John Rolfe was a widower, but his attachment for his dusky helpmate 
seems to have been constant and sincere. 

Upon hearing of the wish of the young colonist to marry his daughter, 
Powhatan was pleased and sent his uncle, the old chief Opachiso, with two 
of his sons and probably a suitable retinue, the king himself being too old 
and feeble to come, to witness the marriage. 

Rolfe and his wife lived near Henrico until 16 16, when they voyaged 
to England with Governor Dale. There were also several other young Indian 
people with them, the object being to educate them as Christian teachers 
among their people, but one of them, Tamocomo, was the especial agent 
of his father-in-law, Powhatan, sent to verify the wondrous tales told him 
by the Virginia settlers. 

*Portu);uese Relation. 

54 



It may he well inia^iiied tliat the advent of this pictures(jue delegation 
from a new world created a great flutter in London. The principal figure, 
Mrs. Rolfe, was duly presented at court, feted by the aristocracy and gen- 
erally received as the daughter of a potentate. Throughout this experience 
it is said that her modesty and grace of bearing, and personal beauty won 
for her the admiration of all whom she met. 

It is sad to learn that this bright picture soon had an ending, for after 
about one year the beautiful Indian Princess died at Gravesend — a name 
sadly befitting the circumstance — as she was about to return to the colony 
of Virginia. While in England she became the mother of a son, who was 
named Thomas. The boy was educated by an English uncle, afterward 
coming to America and, settling at Henrico, became a prominent figure in 
local affairs. A daughter of Thomas Rolfe married Col. Robert Boiling, and 
from this union sprang by intermarriage with the Randolphs of Curl's Xeck, 
many of the most influential and wealthy families of the Old Dominion. 




OLD HOUSE AT JAMESTOWN — 1640. 



55 



JAMESTOWN ISLAND. 

The culminating point in intense interest attending the voyage of the 
James River is found upon the approach of the steamer to the fine wharf 
at old Jamestown. Here is laid the scene of the series of tragic events 
which form a part of the history of the first successful colony of the English 
people in America. It is, indeed, the very birthplace of Anglo-Saxon 
supremacy upon this continent. A spot which should be the annual Mecca 
of multitudes of patriotic Americans. 

The reader will, in perusing the brief relation of the story of Captain 
John Smith, and the accompanying sketch of the life of his dusky rescuer, 
Pocahontas, derive an adequate idea of the history of the settlement during 
the first thirty months of its existence, dating from May 13th, 1607, when 
it was chosen by the Council after seventeen days of exploration and dis- 
cussion. 

These founders were Bartholomew Gosnold, John Smith, (who was 
under arrest) , Edward Wingfield, Christopher Newport, John Ratcliffe, 
John Martin and George Kendall. Of these the only one remaining to 
exercise authority at the end of a year and a half was John Smith. 




H-V'l ■ <■ 



OLD POWDER MAGAZINE AT JAMESTOWN. 



56 







CHURCH AT JAMESTOWN. 



The arrival of Sir Thomas Gates, in May, 1610. after his long deten- 
tion by reason of shipwreck, found the remnant of the colony in such sad 
straits that he decided promptly upon the abandonment of the place, and 
upon the 7th of June the whole company sailed away from a spot which 
was so deadly to all their ambitions, purposing to go to Newfoundland, 
hoping there to find larger ships in which to embark for England. Upon 
arriving opposite a point of the southern shore of the James River, a few^ 
miles below Jamestown, the crews went ashore to hunt the wild hogs which 
were plentiful there and which gave the place its name of Hog Island (now 
Homewood). Here they remained two days, and this circumstance 
changed not only the destinies of the colonists but of civilization in this 
land, for as the little ships were waiting for the ebb tide a boat came to 
them from the seaward, bringing messages from the flagship of Lord De 
La Warre, who had reached the anchorage of old Point Comfort. The 
departing colonists were induced to return 

Under De La Warre the life of the English along the river took on a 
new ambition. Sir George Somers and Captain Argall were sent to the 
Bermudas for hogs, the former soon dying there, the latter returning after 
a stormy experience. 

In 1661 Sir Thos. Dale came with an expedition, followed in August 
by another under Sir Thos. Gates. 

Settlements and forts were located at many points along the river, l^he 
growing of tobacco for the London market soon absorbed much of the en- 
ergies and the cleared land of the colonists. 

The ravages of fever, from year to year among the decimated popula- 
tion were offset by frequent arrivals of more colonists. Many cavaliers, 
adherents of Charles L, were among them ; gentlemen and soldiers unac- 
customed to hard work. Later when the throne had reverted to the son 
of the beheaded monarch of England, the Puritans flocked across she seas 
and the Huguenots also came. Under the administration of Sir George 
\'eardley, Jamestown was unhappily made a Botany Bay for about one 
hundred felons from the prisons of the fatherland. Another and far dif- 
ferent importation in this year, 1619, was the arrival of a considerable 
number of young English women, who were speedily bought up by the 
planters for wives at so much per head, payable in tobacco. 

During 16 19 twelve ships arrived at Jamestown from over the seas, bring- 
ing a total of twelve hundred and sixty-one persons. This year also witnessed 
the assemblage of the first legislative body upon the continent, which met 

58 



at Jamestown, in the church, and consisted of twenty-two representatives 
and the Governor and Council. About this time a Dutch ship landed a cargo 
of negro slaves at Jamestown, the first used by the English in America. 

During the years, 1619, 1620 and 1621 the number of colonists sent to 
Virginia was three thousand five hundred and seventy. Many patents 
were granted to planters for private plantations, and the beginning of many 
of the noble estates which were long the pride of the South was then made. 

The year 1622 is memorable in the annals of the colony by a massacre 
of the settlers at the weaker points and isolated plantations along the river, 
by the Indians. The whole number who perished in this tragic onslaught 
was about three hundred and fifty. The colonists who escaped flocked to 
Jamestown, abandoning what remained undestroyed, and in London 
despair settled down upon the friends of the colony. The policy of con- 
ciliation and efforts to civilize the savages gave place to a determination 
to destroy them, and thus a war of races was waged, which long retarded 
the prosperity of the region. 

Lord Yeardley died in 1627 and was succeeded by Francis West, a 
brother of Lord De La Warre, and a year later the first royal Cxovernor, 
Sir John Harvey, arrived. 

In 1634 the James River settlements were divided into eight shires, 
namely, James City, Henrico, Charles City, Elizabeth City, Warwick 
River, Warroquiyoake, Charles River and Accavvmac The shire of James 
City was subdivided into James City, Yorkhampton and Bruton Parishes. 

In 1648 the number of English settlers and Americans of English 
parentage upon the banks of the James River numbered fifteen thousand, 
and many fine residences, the result of prosperity in the tobacco trade, were 
located along the wild- wood shores of the stream. 

The event which led to the final decline of Jamestown as a centre of 
authority and trade is found in Bacon's Rebellion, which, commencing 
through the efforts of certain fiery young planters to rid themselves of the 
Indians, led to a quarrel w^ith the testy old Governor, Sir William Berke- 
ley, from which a small civil war resulted, during which Bacon's rebels 
captured and burned Jamestown in the year 1675. 

Governor Berkeley, covered his name with infamy by executing a 
number of citizens of good repute who happened to be among those who 
differed with him, but he was recalled to England by the King and died 
in merited disgrace. 

The burning of Jamestown does not appear to have led to its abandon- 

59 



ment, for it is recorded that its population was considerable until near 
the end of the century. In 1690 the census of the English-speaking people 
in the colonies of the James was forty thousand. 

The growing importance of the middle plantations which gradually 
developed into the settlement of the village of Williamsburg, resulted in 
the year 1705, in its selection as the seat of government. The College, 
new State House and Governor's Palace were soon the marvels of the 
country side and poor old Jamestown was left to testify to the mutability of 
human affairs. 

Many owners have possessed the land of Jamestown Island, and its 
successive title-holders have bestowed but scant care upon the remaining 
evidences of its old-time occupation as a busy pioneer community. 

The late Mr. Edward E. Barney did more within a few years to 
develop its possibilities as a plantation and a patriotic resort than any of 
his predecessors. Large areas have been reclaimed from the marsh which 
once covered its rearward margins ; roads have been built, and the fine 
old house has been made habitable. 




BRIDGE AT JAMESTOWN. 

The land upon which the greater part of the original town was situated 
is now covered by the waters of the James River, and the constant crumb- 
ling of the earth along the shore, often revealing fragments of ancient 
brick walls, has long threatened the stability of the beautiful tower of the 
"first church built in America." This picturesque land-mark is seen 
just above the wharf in the midst of the dense copse of sycamore trees and 
clambering vines which cover the little cemetery at its base. Just beyond 
it is the great mound of a Confederate fort long held by the Southern 



60 



soldiers during the Civil War. About an equal distance down stream, in 
the midst of the well-tilled fields, is the substantial mansion which is 
believed to be the oldest European house in America. 

Dr. James D. Moncure, a descendant of one of the early owners, writes 
in response to an inquiry as follows : 

"Williamsburg, Va., April ij, iSg^. 

"Jamestown was situated on the upper end of the island, which was 
then a peninsula, connecting with the main land at a point now known as 
'Amblers,' the thoroughfare being the mouth of Powhatan Creek. The 
mansion was built about 1640 by Wm. Cary or Carey, son of the then 
Mayor of Bristol, England. Wm. Cary left the property to his daughter 
Martha, who married Edward Jaquelin, a Huguenot, and a relative of the 
famous Vendean Chief, De la Roche Jaquelin, royalist leader in the First 
French Revolution. Mr. Edward Jaquelin gave the place to his daughter 
Elizabeth, who married Richard Ambler, the son of John Ambler, Sheriff of 
West Riding, Yorkshire, England. Richard left the property to his son 
Edward Ambler, who married Mary Cary, the daughter of Col. Wilson 
Cary, of Celeys. Miss Mary Cary was sought in marriage by Gen. George 
Washington, when a youth, while she, Mary Cary, was on a visit to her 
sister, Mrs. George Wm. Fairfax. See Bishop Meade's book. Col. 
Cary's reply to Washington's suit.* 

''Edward Ambler left the mansion to his only surviving son. Col. John 
Ambler, who commanded the James City troop during the revolution. 

"The British burned the house in 1776, and it was rebuilt in 1780 on 
the old foundations except the wings, which extended on each side of the 
present house, and a veranda occupied the entire front. This house vyas again 
destroyed in 1862 by the Federal army, leaving the old solid walls still stand- 
ing. The interior was rebuilt on a different plan in 1866-67. Col. John 
Ambler gave this place to his eldest son. Major Edward Ambler, who sold 
it in 1821. Col. Ambler's son, John Jaquelin Ambler, states in his family 
records that as a boy ten years old, he had often walked from Jamestown 
to the 'Main' Farm, now known as the Main, Amblers and St. Georges. 
My uncle, John Jaquelin Ambler, was born in 1800. 

"My records state that the estate of Jamestown contained in 1781, 3,200 
acres ; this does not include that part of the island subsequently bought 
from Sam. Travis. 

"Richard Ambler built the first custom house in the English colonies 
at Yorktown. still standing, and he came here to take charge of the 
custom dues. 

"Yours very truly, etc., 

"Jas. D. Moncure," 

*NoTE.— The reply of Wilson Cary. Ksq.. to Washingtoirs suit for his daughter was in 
these words : "If that is your business here, sir. I wish you to leave the house, for my daugh- 
ter has been accustomed to ride in her own coach." The young lady has been said to closely 
resemble Martha Washington. 

62 



rj' 









Edward Jaquelin referred to in Mr. Moncure's communication was a 
son of John Jaquelin and Elizabeth Craddock, the father being one of 
the noble family of La Roche Jaquelin, Huguenots, who fled from France 
during the reign of Charles IX. before the massacre of St. Bartholomew, 
saving and bringing away much of their great wealth. 

Soon after the property was transferred, Mrs. Louise J. Barney pre- 
sented all of the land in the immediate vicinity of the old church tower, 
covering an area of 23 acres, to the Association for the Preservation of 
Virginia Autiquities at Richmond, the gift thus bestowed covering the 

land still remaining upon 
'■^ * which foundations of the early 

homes of Jamestown may be 
traced, and granting free use 
of wharves, roadways and 
bridges upon the estate. 

The fine old tower presents 
a most interesting study to the 
historical student and all in- 
telligent travelers. It bears 
internal evidence of having 
been utilized as a watch-tower, 
having three floors, the centre 
one being reached, probably, 
bv a movable ladder, and neatly plastered, as a guard-room, while the upper 
story was provided with loop-holes for musketry. No traces are now to be 
found of a church structure, but this is explained by the statement made in 
Bishop Meade's writings,* wherein he states that about the end of the last 
century, Mr. William Lee, of Green Spring, and Mr. John Ambler used 
the bricks of the former church foundations to build a wall around the 
graves, enclosing an area about one-third the size of the original cemeter>-. 
and including the church site. This wall still remains partly m place. 

Hardly second in point of interest to the old tower of English made 
brick are the graves of the sleepers in the shadows of the little church-yard. 
The saplings planted here by loving hands have so grown about and over 
several of the tombstones as to partially envelop them in their trunks, lift- 
ing them from their original places. Such is the case especially in regard 
to the tomb of Ladv Berkeley. 




FRAGMENT OF L.ADY BER KELEV" S G R AVESTONE. 



*01d Churches. Ministers and Families of Virjjinia. by Bishop Meade 



iS5' 



63 



Pending the proposed restoration of this sacred acre most of the grave- 
stones have been numbered and removed to a safe place, their respective 
locations being carefully marked. One large slab of English iron-stone 
remains in its original situation, however, containing the following well- 
executed inscription : 

Under this stone lies interr'd 

The Body of 

Mrs. Hannah Ludwell, 

Relict of 

The Hon. Philip Ludwell, Esq., 

By whom she has left 

One Son and Two Daughters. 

After a most Exemplary Life 
Spent in the cheerful Innocence 
And The Constant Exercise of 
Piety, Charity and Hospitality, 

She Patiently Submitted to 
Death on the 4th Day of April, 
1731, in the 52d Year 
of her Age. 
The cemeteries contain many 
members of the families of Lud- 
well, Beverley, Byrd, Jaquelin, 
Ambler, Travis, Harrison, Ed- 
wards and Blair. 

Regarding the claim that the 
existing tower was a part of the 
first church built by Christians 
in America, Bishop Meade makes 
the statement that the earliest 
place of worship was made from 
old sails fastened to trees, the sec- 
ond was a log building, which 
was soon burned down, the third 
was a wooden building, 24x60 

feet, built 'iprior to]i6ii, and is probably the one in which Lord De la 
Warre. as Governor, the Counciljand other officers deliberated, and in 
which Governor Yeardley held sessions for public business in 161 9. 




SUSANNA TRAVIS G R AVESTONE. JAMESTOWN. 



64 



The dimensions of the old church of which the tower was a part were 
28x56 feet, and it is believed, therefore, that this church was erected after 
the burning at the time of Bacon's Rebellion in 1676, and used long after 
the removal of the Government to Williamsburg in 1705. 

In 1733 a silver font was presented to the church by two members of 
the Ambler familv. 




GRAVESTONE, TRAVIS CEMETERY, JAMESTOWN. 

In the midst of a copse of trees, surrounded by plowed helds, nearly a 
mile from the manor house, is a ruined little cemetery enclosure contain- 
ing the graves of some noted Virginians. It is the site of the main church 
upon the old Williamsburg road. The tombs here are also embedded in 
the old trees, and upon those in sight the sculptured letters are artistically 
cut in the enduring black marble, as sharp and clear as when they came 
from the English workman. Two of them bear a well drawn death's 
head, in low relief, crowned with a wreath of laurel. 



65 



WILLIAMSBURG. 

It is but a few miles across the peninsula formed by the James and York 
rivers in the vicinity of Jamestown Island, and intermediate is the pictur- 
esque old town of Williamsburg, Virginia's first State capital, and, with the 
exception of Harvard, the seat of America's oldest college, William and 
Mary, dating from 1692. A direct highway is soon to connect the wharf 
at Jamestown with Williamsburg, thus giving the residents an excellent 
connection with steamers. 

One of the undertakings seriously considered in this region at present 
is the completion of a trolley system connecting Old Point Comfort, Hamp- 
ton, Newport News, Big Bethel, Yorktown, Williamsburg and Jamestown 
Island, with steamboat connection up or down the James River, thus form- 
ing the most interesting, historic belt-line in America. Williamsburg 
was founded in 1632. 

The old Capitol in which Patrick Henry made one of his greatest 
speeches, including the defiance, "If this be treason make the most of 
it," was burned in 1832. 

A recent visitor to Williamsburg has written of it in the following 
appreciative way : 

"Before the late war, it was the boast of the people that not a pauper 
could be found, and in proof of that, I am told that the communion alms 
collected from various churches had to be sent elsewhere for distribution. 
Interest and curiosity led me to present my letters of introduction, and 
very soon I learned from venerable lips, nothing loth to dwell upon the 
grandeur of the past, of the illuminations at Lord Dunsmore's palace ; of 
the grand balls given there, when coaches and four rolled up the avenue, 
filled with ladies and gentlemen in all the glories of lace ruffles, farthin- 
gales, patches and powders ; of the excitement of the citizens when 
Tarleton with his dragoons dashed up Duke of Gloucester street, or of 
the visit of General Lafayette in 1824. There is not a foot of ground in 
the place that has not some historic or romantic interest. At the head of 
Duke of Gloucester street stands William and Mary College. She has 
been called the 'Westminster of America,' for in her dark vaults lie 
entombed the ashes of Lord Bosetome, Bishop Madison, Sir John Ran- 
dolph, Peyton Randolph, Chancellor Nelson and many others equally 
celebrated in the history of America. 

"At the opposite end of the street, immediately facing the College, 
stood the Capitol, and midway between the two is Bruton Parish church, 

66 




I T'/l'/^JiVtY/^Qf^/?. If 



perhaps the oldest Episcopal church now in use in the United States ; no 
one knows its age, but the authorities on such subjects are inclined to the 
belief that the oldest part, the Norman tower, dates as far back as 1640. 

"The communion service and font, still in use, were brought hither 
from a church in Jamestown, which had been burnt. As it is a well- 
known fact that Pocahontas was baptized in the church at Jamestown, so 
we may safely conclude it was at this very font that the ordinance was per- 
formed. There are two other communion services. One, bearing the 
arms of England, and presented by King George III., is of massive silver. 
But as to the other, which is of gold, there has been much dissension ; 
some think that Queen Anne was the donor. The bell of the church was 
given by an English gentleman, and there is a pretty tradition connected 
with it. It is related that while the metal was in a liquid state Queen 
Anne threw into it a lapful of silver, which is the cause of its peculiarly 
musical tone. 

"The church is built in the form of a cross, the brick having been 
brought from England, 'packed in oil.' Literally, 

(rer buttress and tower the ivy is creeping ; 
In its lone, dark aisles the weary are sleeping, 

for a large part of the edifice is covered by a luxuriant growth of vine, and 
in the vaults beneath sleep many noble sons of the Commonwealth. 

"Strangers always pause before one grave, that of Lady Christine Stu- 
art, sister of Charles Stuart, Earl of Traquaire, and a member of the royal 
house of Scotland. She married a Virginia gentleman, and lived and died 
in Williamsburg. There is no tombstone to mark the spot, but the ivy 
creeps lovingly over the place, and it is well remembered. The descend- 
ants of this lady are the nearest living relatives of Mary Stuart, and many 
of them inherit the grace and beauty of that ever-fascinating queen. 

"Not far below the church, in the same street, is the Court House, de- 
signed by Sir Christopher Wren, and called by architects 'a building per- 
fect in its proportions.' 

' ' Near by is the house in which General Winfield Scott boarded awhile, 
a student at 'William and Mary'; also the office in which the Virginian Ga- 
zette, established in 1700, was printed. Still lower down was the site of 
the old Raleigh tavern, where, within the so-called 'Apollo Hall,' Pat- 
rick Henry and his comrades uttered so many treasonable sentiments. 

68 



"Not a stone's throw from this spot stood the clerk's office and the 
Capitol : and on Frances street, near by, was the boarding house in which 
the members of the House of Burgesses took their meals. 

"Continuing my strolls, I soon found the Masonic Lodge, of which 
General Washington was a member ; in the building his chair is carefully 
preserved. 

"The Saunders Homestead, adjoining the palace grounds, the Wythe 
Mansion and other early residences, hint of the grandeur of days long 
faded into history and whose once proud and happy inmates sleep in 
forgotten graveyards. 'Sic transit gloria mundi.'' " 

SCOTLAND. 

When the steamer Pocahontas turns away from Jamestown she heads 
across the river to the landing of Scotland, where extensive wharfage, 
great piles of lumber, cordwood, and pyramids of barrels account for the 
presence of a group of vessels, large schooners and tugs. The prongs of 
a railway, the "Surry, Sussex and Southampton," lead out upon the 
wharves, either side of the warehouse, and connect tidewater with the three 
counties indicated in its title. 

This place, as well as many others along the river, must suggest to the 
passing traveler who is of a practical nature, the abundant and varied op- 
portunities for profitable investment in cheap forest lands; in fruit-preserving 
plants ; building material establishments, and varied industries for which 
the raw material is close at hand and which the facilities for cheap water 
carriage place in close touch with the centres of traffic. Labor is low priced 
and plentiful, the entire region wonderfully healthful, and so easily reached 
that the businessman, leaving New York at 8 P. M., may arrive ai river 
points (upon alternate days, at present), as far as Jamestown before 12 
o'clock the next day. 

HOMEWOOD. 

Less than a dozen years ago this peninsula, known upon the maps as 
Hog Island, was acquired by Mr. Edward E. Barney, of Dayton, Ohio, 
who foresaw its possibilities, both in regard to fertility and its advantage 
of location for shipment of stock and products of the soil. Large sums 
were expended upon dyking, ditching and other improvements. Tasteful 
cottages were built and furnished to meet the requirements of the owner 

70 



and his family, his manager and employes and for offices. Great stables 
and barns were provided, and a long pier carried out to deep water. The 
estate covers 3,200 acres, a large tract being covered with heavily timbered 
forest, through which roads have been hewn and graded. Here the grand 
sweep of the James River surrounds the cultivated acres upon three-quar- 
ters of the circle. The grazing fields are well dotted with fine cattle. 
Great squares of corn and other cereals rest green in the summer sunshine ; 
every sort of table produce is grown upon an extensive scale. The soft 
winds lave the sandy beach with musical wavelets ; well-kept lawns, 
bright with flowers, surround the pretty avenue of houses, and, with its 
store, warehouses, postoffice and the other essentials of this industrial prin- 
cipality, there is represented the embodiment of a successful agricultural 
village in the heart of the most favored section of the United States, when 
all conditions are fairly taken into account. Pure water is obtained in 
abundance here, as at Jamestown and Meadowvilie, by driven wells from 
400 to 600 feet deep. Fish and oysters of the finest kinds are the yield of 
the broad river. Deer roam the forest, partridge, quail, duck and wild 
turkeys delight the hunter with their abundance. The enthusiasm of the 
resident owner in this ideal place is justified by the results of the faith 
which tempted him to undertake this notable reclamation of a wild and 
long neglected spot. Mr. William F. Gray is the present owner of Home- 
wood . 

The tourist dining upon board of the steamer Pocahontas will find the 
table garnished with early vegetables from Homewood and Jamestown. 
Theonly stop made by the steamer between Homewood Landing and New- 
port News, distant about 20 miles, is 

FERGUSSONS, 

which, like Scotland, is a lumbering and fishing station. The river 
broadens in its estuary to about five miles, and the channel is nearly direct 
to the great elevators which loom above the level of the Virginia low-lands 
at the seaboard terminus of the Chesapeake and Ohio Railway at 

NEWPORT NEWS. 

If the war of 1861-65 devastated Virginia in the attrition of contesting 
armies, it certainly bestowed great eventual prosperity upon her once 
drowsy seaports. Nowhere in the South has material prosperity been more 



constant or more overflowing with promise of an abundant future than 
within the capes of Charles and Henlopen. Norfolk has developed, Ports- 
mouth revived, Old Point Comfort rejuvenated, and Newport News, which 
lay a dormant and unconsidered plain before the armies of the Union whi- 
tened its fields with tents in 1861, has been created. 

The restless energy of capital, forever seeking a point of union between 
inland and seagoing transportation, the essentials of which are cheap rail- 
way construction, low grades, deep water and a protected anchorage, 
found, at Newport News, all of these advantages. Within a dozen years 
a city now having a population of about 8,000 has come into existence. 
The late Mr. C. P. Huntington, formerly president of the Chesapeake and 
Ohio Railway, built his peninsula line down from Richmond through the 
old battle-fields, spread a maze of sidings at the water side just here, 
reared lofty grain elevators and massive coal piers, built the Hotel War- 
wick, fronting upon a pretty park, with its casino and pleasure pavilions, 
and a little later the Newport News Ship Building and Dry Dock Com- 
pany began the construction of one of the greatest ship yards and dry docks 
in the world, with machine shops which employ a brigade of skilled work- 
ers both in construction and repair of sea-going vessels, two of which 
launched from this yard are the largest iron commercial vessels yet made 
in this country. 

The Chesapeake and Ohio Railway is about 1,650 miles in length, its 
western terminals being Lexington, Kentucky, and Cincinnati, Ohio, those 
in the east being Baltimore, Philadelphia and New York to the northward, 
and Washington, Newport News and Norfolk in the south. It passes 
through numerous centres of manufacturing, mining and agricultural in- 
dustry. 

It is operating a transatlantic steamship line from Newport News to 
Liverpool and London. The number of wharves is 7, depth of water at 
wharf ends, 26 feet at low tide. Three banks, seven land companies, 
three building and loan associations, water works, electric lighting, elec- 
tric railway, ice factory and about 200 business firms exist at this point, as 
well as good schools, a newspaper— the 5"?//;— churches, an opera house 
and a first-class hotel. 

The trolley line extends from Newport News to Hampton and Old 
Point Comfort. Just in front of the coal wharves, and a little distance off 
shore, lies the wreck of the U. S. frigate Cumberland, sunk at the time of 
the memorable fight between the Monitor and Merrimac. This event, 

73 



which has resulted in a radical change in the navies of the world, took 
place in Hampton Roadstead, in the immediate vicinity of Newport News, 
and should have more than passing mention. 

THE MONITOR AND MERRIMAC. 

The State of \'irginia, whose deep attachment to the Union is indica- 
ted by the cession of her claims to the Northwest Territory, and her suc- 
cessive efforts in the interest of harmony, having failed to arrest the dis- 
memberment of the government, by the Peace Commission, and the Peace 
Congress, which she had inaugurated in 1861, seceded on the 17th of 
April, 1861, upon President Lincoln's proclamation of April 15th, calling 
for the enlistment of 75,000 troops from the States then in the Union, to 
suppress the so-called rebellion of the Southern States. 

At dusk on the evening of the 20th of April, 1861, the U. S. Steamer 
Pawnee, reached the Norfolk Navy Yard, with dispatches from Washing- 
ton to Commodore C. S. McCauley, then in charge of that station. The 
Union forces at the yard, consisting of the frigate Cumberland, the sloop 
of war Pawnee, and some 800 officers, sailors and marines, deluded by 
the bold front of the small Confederate force then in Norfolk, and by the 
ruse de guerre of running empty trains up and down the Petersburg Rail- 
road, presumably bringing in reinforcements, were induced to abandon 
the post that night, after a partial destruction of its buildings, ships, stores 
and munitions of war. 

On the 30th of May one of these ships, scuttled, partially burned, and 
known as the Merrimac, was raised, docked, and in time, became the 
Confederate iron-clad Virginia. The middle portion of the hull for about 
170 feet was covered with a casemate of wood ; the sides, inclined at an 
angle of 35 degrees, were covered with 4 inches of iron plating, which was 
rolled at the Tredegar Works in Richmond. The bow and stern project- 
ing from under this casemate, about 58 feet at each end, were decked over 
and submerged about 2 feet under water. When prepared for action, the 
Virginia had much the appearance of an acute angled house roof afloat. 

March 8th, 1862. The Virginia, attended by the small gunboats, 
Beaufort and Raleigh, left the harbor of Norfolk at 11 A. M., and reach- 
ing Newport News at 3 P. M., attacked the Federal fleet stationed at the 
entrance of the James, at about the river front now included within the 
Chesapeake and Ohio piers. The U. S. frigate Cumberland, mounting 



24 large guns, was struck in the starboard fore chains by the ram of the 
Virginia and sunk within less than half an hour. The U. S. frigate Con- 
gress, of 40 guns, endeavored to escape the fate of her consort, but went 
aground, head inshore. In this position she was attacked by the Virginia, 
the two gunboats, Beaufort and Raleigh, and the armed steamers, 
Patrick Henry and Jamestown, which came down the James River to aid 
the Confederate fleet. The Congress was surrendered in about 45 min- 
utes after the Cumberland had sunk, and was burned that night by the 
Confederates, The loss in the Cumberland, killed or drowned, amounted 
to 120; in the Congress to 130. That night the Virginia anchored off 
Sewell's Point, to complete the destruction of the Federal fleet at Old Point 
the next morning. On the morning of the 9th of March, 1862, the Vir- 
ginia moved out into the Roads to complete the destruction of the frigate 
Minnesota, which had been prevented the evening before by the approach 
of night, but now found a new and unexpected antagonist in the Monitor, 
or Ericsson, which had reached Old Point the night before at 10 P. M. 
A battle ensued between these two ironclads for four hours, but without 
material damage to either. The Monitor having withdrawn once from 
the action to hoist shot into her turret, as was subsequently explained by 
her executive officer, and having now at 12 o'clock again retired from the 
action in consequence of the severe wounding of Capt. Worden (by the 
explosion of a shell from the Virginia, which resulted in some confusion 
from a change in the command), the commander of the Virginia, after 
waiting a reasonable time, as he thought— about three-quarters of an 
hour— for the Monitor to return to the field of action, took advantage of 
the flood tide then running, and proceeded to Norfolk, to repair the dam- 
age to his battery, some of the guns of which had been broken off and 
otherwise rendered useless in the engagement of the day before with the 
Union fleet. 

On the nth of April, 1862, the Virginia again visited the Roads, and 
offered battle to the Monitor, and Stevens' iron battery, then at Old Point, 
in the presence of the Gassendi and Catinet, French men-of-war, and the 
Rinaldo, an English man-of-war. The gage not being accepted, the 
Confederates then proceeded, with two of their wooden gunboats, to 
capture and bring out three Union merchant vessels lying at anchor at 
Hampton Bar. This done, the Virginia waited in the Roads until 5 P. M. , 
and then returned to Norfolk, as the Monitor still lay under the guns of 
Fort Monroe. 

75 



May the 8th, 1862. The Virginia made her third visit to the Roads, 
at the time the Monitor, Stevens' Xaugatuck, and other Union vessels 
were engaged in shelling the Confederate battery at Sewell's Point. Upon 
the appearance of the Virginia the Union vessels retired to Old Point, the 
Virginia followed them to within two miles of Fort Monroe, but observing 
no purpose to engage, returned and anchored off Sewell's Point. 

The concentration of the Confederate army at Richmond to oppose 
McClellan necessitated the evacuation of Norfolk. The Virginia being 
utterly unseaworthy, and her draught of water 23 feet, rendering her re- 
moval up the James River impossible, she was run ashore in the bight of 
Craney Island, on the eastern side, the evening of May loth, 1862 (Nor- 
folk being then in the possession of the Federal troops), and being set on 
fire that night by the Confederates, blew up at 5 A. M. of the nth. 

The Monitor was lost at sea off Cape Hatteras the night of December 
31st, 1862. 

See "Battles and Leaders of the Civil War." Century Co., Vol. I., p. 6y2. et seg. "V. S. 
Rebellion Records." Series I., Vols. V. and IX. and Vol. XI. Part III. Aeiv York Herald. 
April I2th. nth. and 15th, 1862. 

OLD POINT COMFORT AND FORT MONROE. 

Old Point Comfort is a name which lingers pleasantly in the memories 
of thousands of pleasure travelers. Long before the operations hereabout 
during the Civil War a large, old-fashioned hotel, very popular with the 
families of the affluent planters, was located in front of the great fort, but 
early in the struggle, after it had served for some time as a hospital, it was 
destroyed by orders of the Government to allow free command of the 
harbor to the guns upon the nearby ramparts. 

Soon after the war, Mr. Harrison Phoebus, who was connected with 
the express business at this point, built a small hotel, mainly for the 
accommodation of the army families, from which modest building has 
grown the great Hygeia Hotel which at present is being demolished by 
order of the United States Cjovernment. 

Upon the opposite side of the little street which leads back across the 
government reservation, from the fine government wharf and the Hygeia 
Hotel, is the new and costly Chamberlain Hotel, which finds a large 
patronage, and is one of the most successful watering places in the United 
States, open throughout the year, and always gay with coming and going 
travelers who find this a most agreeable midway point between the North 
and the South. 

76 



Fort Monroe is the most extensive of our military fortifications. It was 
commenced in 1819, and is a massive example of the old-time defensive 
work, being heavily built of hewn stone, surrounded by a moat, with 
casemated and barbette guns, and a great water battery. The parade is 
surrounded by barracks and officers' houses set in a profusion of shade, the 
whole forming a very pretty village of military flavor, which is always 
open, with its little chapel, neat walks, trophies and picturesque parades, 
to the civilian sojourners. 

Fort Monroe is the National Artillery School, and the practice at sea- 
targets with the big guns is very interesting. 

Representative ships of the new navy of this country and of foreign 
powers are nearly always anchored in front of Old Point Comfort. The 
young officers of the artillery vie with their brother warriors of the ocean 
in striving for the smiles of the beautiful girls who are never wanting at 
the Chamberlin Hotel. 

From Old Point Comfort a trolley line leads across to the main land of 
the Peninsula, through the village of Hampton, which has an ancient 
church worth the stranger's call, and on to the National Military Home 
for Disabled Volunteer Soldiers, the main building of which was in ante 
bellum days the "Chesapeake Female College." The beautiful grounds 
of the Home and its constantly growing cemetery of aged inmates adjoin 
the Hampton Normal and Agricultural Institute, which is devoted to the 
education of young Negroes and Indians of both sexes, for the spread of 
enlightenment among their races. Seventeen trustees representing six 
evangelical denominations control the Institute, which employs the services 
of about eightv instructors and assistants, and has an average of above 900 
pupils of all grades. The majority of the graduates become teachers of 
their people. The " plant" of the Institute cost $550,000, which was 
donated by humane persons from many sections, from which source about 
$60,000 is annually received for operating expenses. Large sums are earned 
by the students by labor in return for tuition. 

Visitors are made welcome at both the institutions above described. 
The trolley line extends beyond these interesting places to Newport 
News. 

BIG BETHEL. 

A short distance from Old Point Comfort upon the old road to York- 
town is the scene at Big Bethel of one of the early engagements of the 
Civil War. 

77 



l.efO. 



Upon the preceding evening an expedition left the fortified Union 
camps near the lower end of the Peninsula to attack the Confederates, who 
were strongly entrenched at that place. The Union troops included 
Duryea's Zouaves, Townsend's Albany Regiment, a Naval Brigade and 
Battalion of Regulars from Fort Monroe. 

In the darkness the troops fired into each other, and upon the morning 
of June loth, 1861, proceeded to engage the enemy. The expedition had 
but little artillery, while the Confederates were able to use about thirty 
cannon well masked, and the result was a repulse, the most notable and 
regrettable casualty being the death of Lieut. John T. Greble, of the 
Regular troops, who commanded the battery ; a young officer of fine 
promise and influential family, resident in Philadelphia. 

The steamer Pocahontas connects upon alternate mornings at Old 
Point Comfort with Baltimore and Washington steamers and the transfer 
boat from Cape Charles, which brings the passengers via the New York, 
Philadelphia and Norfolk Railroad, who left New York the preceding 
evening at 8 o'clock. Breakfast may be had upon board the Pocahontas. 

NORFOLK. 

The distance between Old Point Comfort and Norfolk via steamer is 
a little more than 11 miles. This interim of space has been covered by 
the steamer Pocahontas in 36 minutes. 

In approaching Norfolk the vast coal shipping wharves of the Norfolk 
& Western Railroad are seen at Lambert's Point upon the left. Many 
large steam and sail craft are always clustered here awaiting their cargoes. 
The channel leading to the city is guarded by Fort Norfolk upon the left, 
while opposite is the large building of the Marine Hospital, standing 
out vividly against the sombre screen of dense pine grove. 

The Eastern and Southern branches of the Elizabeth River give 
Norfolk and its neighbor Portsmouth an extraordinary^ amount of wharfage 
room, and the facilities for transhipment are admirable. 

The following "manifest," borrowed from a recent excellent local book, 
condenses the story of Norfolk's great trade into very concise form : 

Norfolk is distinguished among American cities for its cotton, lumber, 
truck, coal, oyster and peanut trades. 

As a jobbing emporium and manufacturing place. 

For its foreign and coastwise traffic, its navy yard and seaside resorts. 

For its story : 

78 




ST. PAUL'S CHURCH, NORFOLK. 



It was founded in 1680. 

Besieged and burnt in the Revolutionary War. 

Besieged in the War of 1812, and the Civil War. 

And was the scene of the Monitor and Merrimac encounter in 1862. 

It is in latitude 37 degrees north, and longitude 76. 

The aggregate annual commerce is now $150,000,000. 

The leading lines are as follows : 

Cotton $35,000,000 Coal and Iron $6,785,000 

Jobbing 24,000,000 Truck 8,000,000 

Lumber 10,000.000 Oysters and Fish. . . 2,500,000 

Manufactures, 10,000,000 Peanuts i ,250,000 

The exports (cotton chiefly) are $30,000,000 a year. 

The bank clearings are $55,000,000 a year. 

Of transportation lines Norfolk has : 

Railroads '° 

Coastwise steamship lines 5 

Bay, sound and river lines 7 

79 



Norfolk mingles an intensely commercial atmosphere with the pleasant 
conventionalities of the old Southern town. The many new and costly 
homes in recently projected suburbs of Ghent and elsewhere contrast 
strongly with the roomy old-fashioned mansions of days gone by near the 
West End. At the Chamber of Commerce one will meet the representa- 
tive citizens who have pushed their city to the front rank among seaports, 
and who will later entertain the stranger pleasantly at the "Business 
News Exchange " of the Virginia Club. 

Among the notable buildings of Norfolk are the City Hall, Atlantic 
Hotel, Old St. Paul's Church, New City Market, Y. M. C. A. Hall, St. 
Luke's Episcopal Church, New Brambleton Ward School, Haddington 
Office Building, Norfolk Academy, New Altantic City Ward School, 
Marine Bank. 

Old St. Paul's Church is much visited by strangers in town. It was 
erected in 1739, restored in 1832, and reoccupied in 1865. Its ancient 
cemetery, together with the ivy clad structure, form a most picturesque 
though melancholy picture. 

The people of Norfolk take their seashore pleasure at Ocean \'iew, a 
few miles to the North, upon the shore of Hampton Roadstead, and at 
Virginia Beach a short ride by rail through the piney woods to the eastward, 
where the handsome Princess Anne Hotel fronts upon the unhindered sea. 
I'his place rivals Old Point Comfort in popularity with Northern visitors. 
The landing of the steamer Poc.ahont.as at Norfolk is at the Clyde Line 
wharves, convenient to the street cars and trains. She also touches at 
Portsmouth. 

In conclusion it is earnestly hoped that the traveler over the James 
River route who has, by the aid of these pages, learned something of the 
storied past, the busy present and roseate future of this fruitful region, and 
its historic river, w'ili feel so well repaid for the tour he has undertaken 
that it will lead him to commend its thronging attractions to many others 
who as yet only know of its charms " dimly as seen or heard from afar." 



^«-«;wwi.'^,7j^;i.t-^j^^^ i-^ h* "«f|^-^4^f«ft*'ii^iWft!tj^ 




80 



VIRGINIA GAME LAWS ON LOWER JAMES 
RIVER— CLOSED SEASON. 

This analyses of Game Laws of Virginia in reference to hunting, 
embraces all legislation, including the session of 1902. 

Code, Chapter 60, Section 1338. 
This section says all the beds of the bays, rivers, creeks, and shores of 
the sea within the jurisdiction of this Commonwealth, and not conveyed by 
special grant, or compact, according to law, shall continue and remain the 
possession of the Commonwealth of Virginia, and may be used as a common 
by all the people of this State, for the purpose of fishing and fowling, &c., 
subject to the provisions of chapters 95, 96 and 97 of the Code, and any 
future laws that may be passed, &c. 

UNLAWFUL HUNTING AND TRESPASSING ON 
ANOTHER'S LAND. 

Chapter 646, Acts i895-'6, in regard to unlawful hunting on another's 
land, is as follows : "If any person, without the consent of the owner or 
tenant, shoot, hunt, range, fish, trap or fowl on or in the lands, waters, 
mill-ponds, or private ponds of another, which are inclosed, or the bound- 
aries, of which, or the streams adjacent to which, constitute a lawful fence, 
or on any lands, waters, mill-ponds or private ponds of another, east of 
the Blue Ridge, or in the waters on said lands, he shall be deemed guilty 
of a trespass, and, upon conviction thereof, shall be fined not less than five 
dollars nor more than fifty dollars, and, in addition thereto, shall be liable 
in action for damages ; and if any person, after being warned not to do so 
by the owner or tenant of any premises, shall go upon the lands of the said 
owner or tenant he shall, in addition to the liabilities imposed under this 
section, be deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and, upon conviction thereof, 
punished by a fine not exceeding fifty dollars, or imprisonment in the 
county jail not exceeding sixty days, or both, in the discretion of the jury." 

Henrico, — Partridges, pheasants, wild turkeys, woodcock, rabbits, 
Feb, ist to Nov. ist. Unlawful to hunt wild water-fowl or game between 
sunset and sunrise. 

Chesterfield. — Deer, rabbits, February ist to September ist. Par- 
tridges, February ist to October 15th. Wild turkeys, January 15th to 
October 15th. Unlawful to hunt wild water-fowl or game between sunset 
and sunrise, 

81 



Charles City. — Deer, January 15th to September 15th. Partridges, 
January 15th to October 15th. Wild turkeys, February ist to October ist. 
Unlawful to^hunt wild water-fowl or game between sunset and sunrise. 

Prince George. — Partridges, February 15th to November ist. Wild 
turkeys, February 15th to October ist. Unlawful to chase deer with dogs, 
January 15th to September ist. Unlawful to hunt wild water-fowl or game 
between sunset and sunrise. 

James City and Williamsburg. — Unlawful to kill, buy or sell par- 
tridges, quail, hares, rabbits or wild turkey within the couniy, or the 
city of Williamsburg, from the 15th of February to the 15th of November. 
Unlawful to hunt wild water-fowl or game between sunset and sunrise. 

Surry. — Deer, January 
15th to September i st. 
Partridges, February 15th 
to November ist. Wild 
turkeys, February 15th to 
October ist. Unlawful to 
kill wild turkeys, or par- 
tridges when snow is on the 
ground. 

Sussex. — Deer, January 
15th to August ist. Par- 
tridges, February 15th to 
November ist. Wild tur- 
keys, February 15th to 
October 1 5th. Rabbits, 
February ist to October ist. 
Unlawful to kill wild tur- 
keys or partridges when 
snow is on the ground. 

Southampton. — Deer, 
January 15th to September 
ist. Partridges, February 
15th to November ist. 
Wild turkeys, February 
15th to November 15th. 

Warwick. — Partridges, 




A day's shooting ox the JAMES. 



wild turkeys, January 15th to October 15th. 



82 



Isle of Wight. — Partridges, February 15th to November ist. Wild 
turkeys, January 15th to October 15th. 

Elizabeth City. — Partridges, rabbits, February ist to November 15th. 
Wild turkeys, January 15th to October 15th. 

Nansemond. — Partridges, wild turkeys, January 15th to October 15th. 

Norfolk. — Partridges, February ist to November 15th. Wildturkeys, 
January 15th to October 15th. Rabbits and hares, November 15th to 
February ist. 

Woodcock. — April ist to November ist. Shooting these birds pro- 
hibited in all counties between dates mentioned, except those below : 

SoRA AND Summer Duck. — Are unprotected and can be killed at any 
time they are found. 

Marsh Hex. — Not to kill, or destroy in any manner, this bird, or take 
its eggs, later than June 20th, each season. 

WiLLET. — Forbidden to kill this bird or take its eggs later than July 
20th. 

Gull or Striker. — Not to kill before September ist, or take its eggs 
later than July 20th. 

Turkey Buzzard— Forbidden at all times to kill these scavengers. 

Brown Thrush, Cardinal or Red Bird, Wood Robin, Blue Bird, 
House Martin or Starling.— Prohibited at all times from killing or 
capturing. 

The "Oriole," which is exclusively a songster, and not a bird for 
hunting, is protected in the same act at all times, but omitted entirely from 
the Code. 




83 



By special request the late Major A. H. Drewry has furnished for 
publication in this book the following able notes upon 



TIDE-WATER VIRGINIA. 

"This region has always been regarded as one of the most favored 
sections of the 'Old Dominion.' Various water courses irrigate a region 
naturally rich and highly productive of all the cereals, and the" profitable 
growth of grapes and other fruits for trucking and stock raising. 

"Much of the land is underlaid with line deposits of marl, the most 
potent of fertilizers, with the development of rapid and cheap transporta- 
tion from all the river points for all kinds of produce to the great cities of 
the North, ready sale for all surplus products seems now assured, greatly 
to the benefit of the farmer, the handler and the consumer. 

"In point of abundance of food this region is unsurpassed by any 
portion of the whole country. There is an unfailing supply of fish and 
oysters, game of every kind, including deer, water and wood-fowl, among 
the latter being the partridge and wild turkey, and, in short, all the con- 
ditions of an idyllic existence. 

"The population being almost purely native American, and largely 
descendants of the old families, is unusually cultured and refined. 

"With the improved drainage of low tracts along the river malarial 
conditions seem to have disappeared, while the genial and equable climate 
acts eflFectually against the inroads of typhoids, pneumonia and like diseases 
prevalent in less favored latitudes. 

"Here the pleasure seeker and the invalid may alike enjoy the bright 
sunny days of winter at a time when the frosty winds and snows of the 
North would keep them in that region closely indoors. In verification 
of all this the passing traveler, especially upon the trip along the James 
River, may easily discover that a large proportion of the beautiful old 
mansions along its leafy shores are the homes of hale old men, born and 
bred there, scions of the families of long ago, real old Virginia gentlemen 

84 



who have enjoyed life to its fullest and attained an age of 75 or 80 years, 
specimens of a class which in passing away has endowed large families 
with an abundance of this world's goods out of the profits of farming, a 
pursuit which, in the long run, is the best any man can follow ; its rewards 
may be slow but they are far more sure than those of any other form of 
occupation. Here, under his own 'vine and fig tree' the land owner may 
rest at ease, secure against the terrors of blizzards, strikes and panics, 
happy in the society of those he loves and for whom he cheerfully toils." 




A day's fishing on the JAMES. 



85 



THE 

Norfolk National Bank, 



NORFOLK, VIRGINIA. 

ORGANIZED AUGUST 1, It'SS. 

UNITED STATES DEPOSITARY, 



CALDWELL HARDY, President 
C. W. 'GRANDV, Vice-President 
A. B. SCHWARZKOPF, Cashier 
W. A. GODWIN, Assistant Cashier 




CAPITAL "^g^ 7lT.\Ts 

$400,000 ^ $420,000 



COLLECTIONS PROMPTLY REMITTED FOR. 



Accounts of Banks, Bankers, Merchants, Manufacturers and 
Individuals Solicited. 

DIRECIORS: 

C. \V. GRANDV R. I'. WALLER C. BU-LUPS 

M. L. T. DAVIS JOHN N. VAUGHAN THOS. R. BALLENTINE 

W. D. ROUNTREE D. LOWENBERG CALDW ELL HARDY 

WM. H. WHITE J. G. VVOMBLE WM. M. WHALEV 

F. S. ROYSTER C. A. W'OODARD HENRY KIRN 



The Jefferson, 



RICHMOND, VA 




1 t>""-p^^: \ 



^^i 



^^^' 



The remodeled portion, Franklin street end, of this magnifi- 
cent Hotel was reopened for the reception of guests 
on May 15, 1902, and is conducted upon 
the European Plan exclusivel}'. 



Turkish, Russian and Roman Baths, 
Long Distance Phone in each room. 



Railroad Ticket and Telegraph Offices in Hotel. Baggage 
checked to destination. 



The Mecklenburg, 



CHASE CITY, VA. 



j-l-T-T 






rS&acf 



I ibrmjj i 




Immediately upon the Southern Railroad, three hours from 
Richmond. This new, modern and handsomely furnished 
Hotel and Sanatorium was opened December i, 1902, and 
will continue as an all-the-year-round health and pleasure re- 
sort. Water, heat, electric lights throughout. Light, airy bed- 
rooms, wide verandas. Golf, riding and driving. Quail shoot- 
ing upon private preserves from October to March. 

Chase City Lithia, an acid solvent ; Chloride Calcium 
Water, a natural blood purifier and nerve tonic — strongly en- 
dorsed by Medical profession. Complete Mydriatic Depart- 
ment ; Resident Physician. Booklet upon application. 

Under same management as The Jefferson, Richmond, Va. 



ORGANIZED 1867. 



4f 



. . THE . . 

Citizens Bank of Norfolk, Va. 




Walter H. Doyle, - President, 
J. W. Perry, - Vice-President, 
Tench F. Tilghman, - Cashier, 



Interest paid on money by special contract. Bills 

of exchange issued on all parts 

of the world. 



Safety Deposit Boxes for rent at moderate 
cost in the only absolutely fire-proof building in 
Virginia. 



Planters National Bank, 

Richmond, Virginia. 

CAPITAL, $300,000.00 
SURPLUS, $800,000.00 

Receives accounts of Merchants, Individuals and Corporations on the most 

liberal terms. Thoroughly equipped in every department for 

the prompt and accurate transaction of every 

branch of banking. 



In the Savings Department deposits of $1.00 and 
more are accepted and interest paid semi-annually 
at the rate of 3 per cent, per annum, i 3I i 5. S. 

Jas. N. Boyd, President. 
Rich'd H. Smith, Cashier. Geo. W. Warren, Mgr. Savings Dept. 

HOTEL MONROE, 

PORTSMOUTH, VA. 




Located in the heart of the 
city ; convenient to Post 
Office, Theatre and Depots. 
Is handsomely furnished. 
The decorations are beau- 
tiful and pleasing to the 
eye. The table — well try it. 
Music every night. Navy 
headquarters. Special rates 
to commercial travelers, i 



R. W. MacDONALD, 

PROPRIETOR, 



The VirginiaNavigation Co.'s 

PALACE STEAMER 

POCAHONTAS. 



Leaves RICHMOND 7 A. M.; Arrives NORFOLK 5:30 P. M. 

( MONDAY. WEDNESDAY AND FRIDAY, i 
Leaves NORFOLK 7 A. M.; Arrives RICHMOND 5:30 P. M. 

(TUESDAY, THURSDAY AND SATURDAY.) 

TOUCHING AT ALL INTERMEDIATE POINTS, INCLUDING 

Historic Jamestown, Newport News, 

Old Point Comfort (Fortress Monroe) 

AND PASSING THROUGH 



Dutch Gap Canal. 



QUICK TIME. FIRST-CLASS MEALS. UNRIVALLED HIS- 
TORICAL INTEREST THROUGHOUT THE TRIP. 

Rail connections with all trains at both Richmond and Norfolk, and 
steamer connection from and to Cape Charles, Washington and Baltimore 
at Old Point Comfort ; M. & M. T. Co. for Boston, and O. D. S. S. Co. 
for New York at Norfolk ; at City Point for Petersburg, 

State Rooms can be reserved for the night before at either Richmond or 
Norfolk. Tourists can go direct from train to boat. Card Rooms and 
Private Parlors reserved upon application. 



Fare between Richmond and Norfolk, $1,50 ; 
Round Trip, $2.50. 

J. W. McCARRICK. Agent. IRVIN WEISIGER. Gener.al Manager, 
Norfolk, Va. Richmond. Va. 

H. M. WOODS, Agent. E. A. BARBER, Jr.. Secy-Treas.. 
Old Point Comfort, Va. Richmond. Va. 









Chesapeake Bay's Famous Summer Resort is 

Ocean View, 

opposite Old Point, and eight miles from Norfolk. Frequent 
Trolle\' and Boat Connections both ways. 

^ ' Magnificent Bathing and 

^^ " Fishing. 



Lots of Amusements. 

The Atlantic City of 
Virginia. 







r 



I Write for rates, or come 
f^' ^'"« down and see 

T^« 1?^ I jl{ g ^ i^AV. the 

U^-^ ?4!!L4^ •^'' T^i-^^^ Ocean View Hotel, 

■"" " Ocean View, Va. 

NEW ATLANTIC HOTF.L, NORFOLK, VA. 



THE LEADING EUROPEAN HOTEL OF THE SOUTH. 

CENTRALLY LOCATED, 

MURPHY'S HOTEL 

8th and Broad Sts., Richmond, Va. 




RATES: 

$i.oo, $1.50, and $2.00 per day. 
Rooms with Bath and en suite. 

JOHN MURPHY, Owner and Proprietor. 



Chesapeake fi Ohio Coal Agency 
Company. 

C. B. ORCUTT, President. ^^M^^ J. W. HOPKINS. General Agent. 

No. 1 Broadway, New York. '''^^Ri 9th and Main Sts.. Richmond, Va. 

C. H. SPRAGUE & SON, KANAWHA COAL AND COKE CO., 
Mason Bldg, Boston, Mass. Fourth and Elm Sts., Cincinnati, O. 

AGENTS FOR 

New River Steam Coal 

ALSO AGENTS FOR 

KANAWHA GAS AND SPLINT COALS. 

National Bank of V^irginia 

AT RICHMOND, VIRGINIA. 




Capital $500,000 / f;: \ '""^'I^^^Ats, $130,000 



UNITED STATES, STATE AND CITY DEPOSITORY 

W. M. HABLISTON, President 
T. K. SANDS, Cashier O. S. MORTON. Assistant Cashier 

Deposits Feb. 6, 1899, !f799,263 

Deposits Feb. 6, 1903, $2,487,585 

Accounts solicited. Special Department for Savings Accounts. In- 
terest allowed. 



Old Dominion Steamship Co 



\V. L. GUILLAUDEU, - - - President. 
H. B. WALKER. Vice-Pres. & Traffic Mgr. 
J. S. SAMMIS. - ----- Treasurer. 

I. P. JERNIGAN, ------ Auditor. 



General Offices of Company, 81-85 Beach Street, 
New York, N. Y. 



FROM NEW YORK . 

Daily, Except Sunday, for Old Point .p 

Comfort, Norfolk. Portsmouth. Pm- qxQ 

ner's Point and Newport News. ^1 , 

Steamers leave 3:00 p. m.. except on /|^ 
Saturday, 4:00 p. m. 



TO NEW YORK 
Daily, Including Sunday, from Norfolk. 

Va. Steamers leave at 6 p. m. 
From Old Point Comfort. Newport 

News. etc.. auxiliary steamers connect 

with main line at Norfolk. 



The Longest Daily All-Water Line in the World. 



At 



CONNECTIONS. 
NEWPORT NEWS and OLD POINT COMFORT— With Chesapeake & Ohio Ry. 



At VORFOIK— With Atlantic Coast Line, Baltimore Steam Packet Co. (Bay Ljne - 
ChJioeake Steariship Co., Norfolk & Carolina R. R., Norfolk & Western Rail- 
way Norfolk & Southe'rn R. R., Norfolk & Washington, D. C. Steamboat Co., Seaboard 
Air Line, Southern Railway and Virginia Navigation Co. 



6^ j'^ 




'^^f 



h 

V 



WM RUEGER Prop'r. , vx 

^^^ ^*i^--^ .■■^^<ii nrn&DankS'feets 



Richmondyai, 



SEP 29 1903 




Jam^atnmn 




Uiryitiia 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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014 433 673 2 



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